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As to the unimaginable splendor of it when the sun is blazing down on it well, it simply IS unimaginable. A guide-book is a queer thing. The reader has just seen what a man who undertakes the great ascent from Zermatt to the Riffelberg Hotel must experience. Yet Baedeker makes these strange statements concerning this matter: 1. Distance 3 hours. 2. The road cannot be mistaken. 3.
The inn on the Riffelberg is nearly eight thousand feet high, almost two thousand feet above the hut on Mount Washington; yet it is not so cold and desolate as the latter. Grass grows and flowers bloom on its smooth upland, and behind it and in front of it are the snow-peaks.
I sat silent some time, then turned to Harris and said: "My mind is made up." Something in my tone struck him: and when he glanced at my eye and read what was written there, his face paled perceptibly. He hesitated a moment, then said: "Speak." I answered, with perfect calmness: "I will ascend the Riffelberg." If I had shot my poor friend he could not have fallen from his chair more suddenly.
We did not stay at Zermatt, but pushed on for the hotel on the top of the Riffelberg, a very stiff and tiresome climb of about three hours, an unending pull up a stony footpath.
We did not stay at Zermatt, but pushed on for the hotel on the top of the Riffelberg, a very stiff and tiresome climb of about three hours, an unending pull up a stony footpath.
So we had climbed the zigzags to the right of the Riffelberg and followed the footpath overlooking the glacier, in the silence enjoined by single file, but at last we were seated on the hillside, a trifle beyond that emerald patch which some humourist has christened the Cricket-ground. Beneath us were the serracs of the Gorner Glacier, teased and tousled like a fringe of frozen breakers.
I have pretty effectually throttled these errors by sending him the following demonstrated facts: 1. Distance from Zermatt to Riffelberg Hotel, 7 days. 2. The road CAN be mistaken. If I am the first that did it, I want the credit of it, too. 3. Guides ARE necessary, for none but a native can read those finger-boards. 4.
A document, signed and sealed by the authorities, was given to me which established and endorsed the fact that I had made the ascent of the Riffelberg. This I wear around my neck, and it will be buried with me when I am no more. I am not so ignorant about glacial movement, now, as I was when I took passage on the Gorner Glacier. I have "read up" since.
"'Twouldn't be safe to go without them," said Jasper, shaking his head, "unless we had nails driven in our shoes." "I'd much rather have the nails," cried Polly, "oh, much rather, Jasper." "Well, we'll see what father is going to let us do," said Jasper. "Wasn't that fun snowballing just think in July," cried Polly, craning her neck to look back down the path toward the Riffelberg station.
I formed the caravan in marching order, presently, and after riding down the line to see that it was properly roped together, gave the command to proceed. In a little while the road carried us to open, grassy land. We were above the troublesome forest, now, and had an uninterrupted view, straight before us, of our summit the summit of the Riffelberg.
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