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B. says it is only Friday; but I am positive I have had three cold baths since we left Ober-Ammergau, which we did on Wednesday morning. If it is only Friday, then I have had two morning baths in one day. Anyhow, we shall know to-morrow by the shops being open or shut. We travelled from Oberau with a tourist agent, and he told us all his troubles.
The express-train of twenty cars which carried us from Munich was crowded with people from almost every part of the civilized world. At Oberau, six miles from Oberammergau, at the foot of the Ettal Mountain, we left the railway, and there took part in a general scramble for seats in the carriages.
I expect to obtain a discount of at least five-and-twenty per cent. off my bill of crimes for that Bradshaw. The 3.10 train in the morning was, of course, too late for us. It would not get us to Ober-Ammergau until about 9 a.m. Cook and Mr. We had another grand railway-ride from Munich to Oberau.
In some parts of Upper Bavaria at Easter burning arrows or discs of wood were shot from hill-tops high into the air, as in the Swabian and Swiss customs already described. At Oberau, instead of the discs, an old cart-wheel was sometimes wrapt in straw, ignited, and sent rolling and blazing down the mountain. The lads who hurled the discs received painted Easter eggs from the girls.
"A Feeling of Sadness Comes O'er Me." The German Cigar. The Handsomest Match in Europe. "How Easy 'tis for Friends to Drift Apart," especially in a place like Munich Railway Station. The Victim of Fate. A Faithful Bradshaw. Among the Mountains. Prince and Pauper. A Modern Romance. Arrival at Oberau. Wise and Foolish Pilgrims. An Interesting Drive. Ettal and its Monastery.
The railway now carries him round Mount Ettal to Oberau, from which little village a tolerably easy road, as mountain roadways go, of about four or five English miles takes him up to the valley of the Ammer. It was midnight when our train landed us at Oberau station; but the place was far more busy and stirring than on ordinary occasions it is at mid-day.
Later, when tramping through the Bavarian Highlands, I walked one winter day from Partenkirchen to Oberammergau, for I had a whim to know the truth of the matter. On the lonely mountain road that winds sharply up from Oberau I overtook a Benedictine monk who was walking to the monastery at Ettal.
Rouyer, after being slightly hurt by a rolling mass of rock, retreated after leaving orders to the Saxon regiment, composed of contingents from Weimar, Gotha, Coburg, Hildburghausen, Altenburg, and Meiningen, commanded by Colonel Egloffstein, to retain its position in the Oberau. This action took place on the 4th of August.
The rest of the Saxon troops were taken prisoners, after a desperate resistance, in the dwelling-houses of Oberau. They had lost nearly a thousand men. The other corps d'armee met with no better fate.
These various corps d'armee, by which the Tyrol was thus attacked simultaneously on every point, were to concentrate in the heart of the country. Lefebvre found the Brenner open. The Tyrolese, headed by Haspinger, had burned the bridges on the Oberau and awaited the approach of the enemy on the heights commanding the narrow valley of Eisach.
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