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Updated: May 8, 2025
We descended into the fertile valley of Coquimbo, and followed it till we reached an Hacienda belonging to a relation of Don Jose, where we stayed the next day. I then rode one day's journey farther, to see what were declared to be some petrified shells and beans, which latter turned out to be small quartz pebbles.
I set out in company with Don Jose Edwards to the silver-mine of Arqueros, and thence up the valley of Coquimbo. Passing through a mountainous country, we reached by nightfall the mines belonging to Mr. Edwards. I enjoyed my night's rest here from a reason which will not be fully appreciated in England, namely, the absence of fleas!
It is only, as was shown in detail when discussing the terraces of Coquimbo, when the sea with difficulty and after a long lapse of time has either corroded a narrow ledge into solid rock, or has heaped up on a steep surface a NARROW mound of detritus, that we can confidently assert that the land at that level and at that period long remained absolutely stationary.
The relations of these species have been given under the head of Coquimbo. Terebratula aenigma, d'Orbigny, "Voyage" Part Pal. This shell M. d'Orbigny does not consider identical with his T. aenigma, but near to T. obsoleta. Professor Forbes thinks that it is certainly a variety of T. aenigma: we shall meet with this variety again at Copiapo. Spirifer Chilensis, E. Forbes.
The Government had not sent any of the promised supplies for the squadron, which was running short of provisions, so that it was necessary to resort to my former practice of compelling the Spaniards to furnish them; whilst as no troops had been supplied, it was clear that there had never been an intention of sending any; the assurance of the Minister of Marine that they were waiting for me at Coquimbo being only a ruse on his part to get me to sea without a military force.
Five narrow, gently sloping, fringe-like terraces rise one behind the other, and where best developed are formed of shingle: they front the bay, and sweep up both sides of the valley. At Guasco, north of Coquimbo, the phenomenon is displayed on a much grander scale, so as to strike with surprise even some of the inhabitants.
Corfield's house at Valparaiso. Coast-road to Coquimbo. Great loads carried by the miners. Coquimbo. Earthquake. Step-formed terraces. Absence of recent deposits. Contemporaneousness of the Tertiary formations. Excursion up the valley. Road to Guasco. Deserts. Valley of Copiapo. Rain and Earthquakes. Hydrophobia. The Despoblado. Indian ruins. Probable change of climate.
Continuing their course for Lima, they put into the harbour of Coquimbo, in lat. 29° 54' S. where the admiral sent fourteen men on shore for water. This small company being espied by the Spaniards, they collected 300 horse and 200 foot, and slew one of the Englishmen, the rest getting back to the ship.
A specimen also, I may add, of the true T. aenigma, was given me from the neighbourhood of the famous silver mines of Chanuncillo, a little south of the valley of the Copiapo, and these mines, from their position, I have no doubt, lie within the great gypseous formation: the rocks close to one of the silver veins, judging from fragments shown me, resemble those singular metamorphosed deposits from the mining district of Arqueros near Coquimbo.
It is these deserts, covered with gravel and destitute of plants, which are almost entirely wanting in the New World. I saw them only in that part of Peru, between Amotape and Coquimbo, on the shores of the Pacific. These are called by the Spaniards, not llanos, but the desiertos of Sechura and Atacamez. This solitary tract is not broad, but it is four hundred and forty leagues long.
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