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Updated: June 25, 2025


For here was a somewhat rumpled black suit and along with it a blue-striped shirt, showing slight signs of recent wear, a turndown collar that was barely soiled, and a plain black four-in-hand tie. Trencher went through the pockets of the suit, finding several letters addressed to Marcus K. Parker at an address in Broad Street, down in the financial district.

The winter Sunday dress: Linsey dress, shepherd's plaid shawl, black straw bonnet. A plain brown or black turndown straw hat with a rosette of the same color, and fastened on with elastic, should be possessed by all servants for common use, and is indispensable for nursemaids walking out with children.

Meanwhile the downward shuffle of the heavy shoes on the steps did not cease, and a little man in a workman's cap was heard crying in a drawling voice: "Oh my, she ain't no wopper! There's some pickings there!" In the passage two young men, delicately curled and formally resplendent in turndown collars and the rest, were disputing together.

The straight, standing, military, white linen collar, showing no opening in front, is always worn with this uniform, with not to exceed one-half inch showing above the collar of the coat. Turndown, piccadilly, or roll collars are not authorized. The full-dress uniform is the same as the dress uniform, with the breast cord added.

But that did not matter; he had achieved smartness; the Figaro had printed his name twice. And with his meager neck sticking up between the turndown points of his collar and his figure squeezed into all too short a coat, he would swagger about, uttering his parrotlike exclamations and affecting a solemn listlessness suggestive of an emotionless marionette.

She had a perfect view of his thick red neck in its turndown collar, crossed by a black bow over a shiny white shirt. And, holding out her hand, she said: "How do you do, Mr. Wagge? It was kind of you to come." Mr. Wagge turned. His pug face wore a downcast expression. "I hope I see you well, ma'am. Pretty place you 'ave 'ere. I'm fond of flowers myself. They've always been my 'obby."

He was dressed in cheap black, like the two deacons, with the exception of a loose, black alpaca coat and the usual black silk neckerchief tied in a large bow under a turndown collar, the general sign and symbol of a minister of his sect.

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