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Updated: June 28, 2025
Hodgson and I set off in an eastern direction for the Teesta river, whose embouchure from the mountains to the plains I was anxious to visit. Though the weather is hot, and oppressively so in the middle of the day, there are few climates more delicious than that of these grassy savannahs from December to March.
A considerable stand was made here by the Lepchas during the Nepal war in 1787; they defended the pass with their arrows for some hours, and then retired towards the Teesta, making a second stand lower down, at a place pointed out to me, where rocks on either side gave them the same advantages. The Nepalese, however, advanced to the Teesta, and then retired with little loss.
And herein lies its mystery: we see much, but we feel that there is infinitely more behind. Of this life of the forest in all its richness, intensity, and variety we shall come to know more as we ascend the Teesta Valley till it reaches the snows, and tropical plant and animal life changes first to temperate and then to arctic forms. But first we must note some beauties of the valley itself.
I have seen many of these lovely butterflies flying about in the Teesta Valley, glistening in the dappled light of the forest, and then settle on a branch; and unless I had actually seen them alight, I should never have known them from leaves. The moths, though naturally not as beautiful as the butterflies, are far more numerous, there being something like two thousand species.
I felt very anxious about the prospect of our getting round by Donkia pass and Cholamoo, which would enable me to complete the few remaining miles of my long survey of the Teesta river, and which promised immense results in the views I should obtain of the country, and of the geology and botany of these lofty snowless regions.
But for the number of varieties of plants these upper valleys of the Teesta River can scarcely be excelled. As we ascend the mountain-sides above Tangu we find them covered with plants of numerous different kinds, and even at about 14,000 feet Hooker gathered over two hundred plants. But now we are nearing the limit of plant life.
Campbell's going to meet Rajah Views in valley Leave for Teesta river Tipsy Kajee Hospitality Murwa beer Temples Acorus Calamus Long Mendong Burning of dead Superstitions Cross Great Rungeet Boulders, origin of Purchase of a dog Marshes Lamas Dismiss Ghorkhas Bhoteea house Murwa beer.
Unfortunately a thick mist and heavy rain cut off all view of the Teesta valley, and the mountains of Chola to the eastward; which I much regretted.
Up the Teesta valley there was a pretty peep of snowy mountains, bearing north 35 degrees east, of no great height. I was met by a messenger from Dr.
Lushington sent to Dorjiling Leave Tumloong Cordial farewell Dewan's merchandise Gangtok Kajee Dewan's pomp Governor-General's letter Dikkeeling Suspicion of poison Dinner and pills Tobacco Bhotanese colony Katong-ghat on Teesta Wild lemons Sepoys' insolence Dewan alarmed View of Dorjiling Threats of a rescue Fears of our escape Tibet flutes Negotiate our release Arrival at Dorjiling Dr.
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