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Updated: May 24, 2025


We were sorry to say good-bye, he was lonely, and we liked him; but we lost no time, as we were seven hours from Podgoritza and goodness knows how far from Cettinje. The carriage and coachman were the same as yesterday's, but his expression was so lugubrious in the downpouring rain that he looked another man. Just outside the village he picked up a friend and put her in the carriage.

"Say, who are your pals?" said a nasal voice, and the owner, a pleasant-looking man in a broad-shouldered mackintosh, took a seat at our table. He was also a Montenegrin, and had been mining in America for some years. More coffees were ordered. We confided to the new American Montenegrin that we did not like Podgoritza, and he tried to find excuses the hour, the bad weather.

To wait was too risky; others would certainly get seedy and sooner or later some one might get seriously ill. We felt we must push on to Podgoritza and be within hail of doctor and chemist. But Willett looked very wretched, lying flat and refusing breakfast. We plied him with chlorodyne; but the chlorodyne did not like him and they parted company.

We have never heard this kind of singing anywhere else. Next day we crossed the river and explored the quaint and beautiful streets of the Turkish quarter. The people are equally offensive on both sides of the town; however, Podgoritza seems to be the White-chapel of Montenegro and we finally had to take refuge in the sheds of the French wireless telegraphy.

Podgoritza exclaimed he was a fool to tell me this: "Now she will denounce us in England and America, too!" But they did not deny it. News came from Djakovo that Father Palitch, a plucky Franciscan, whom I had met there in 1908, had been bayoneted to death for refusing to make the sign of the cross in Orthodox fashion.

And as they got up into the highlands beyond Scutari they began to realize the deceitfulness of Podgoritza and the real truth about khans.

The Montenegrins rushed to the fray with wild enthusiasm and on the high ground between Rijeka and Podgoritza won the battle called "The Field of the Sultan's Felling," such was the number of Turks who, entangled in the thorn bushes, were slaughtered wholesale, as the Montenegrin driver recounts to this day when he passes the spot.

One of the antique dames who cook sausages in the shadow of the cafés brought us a plate each funny little hard things and we bought cakes and nougat from perambulating Peter Piemen. The station platform was like the last scene of a pantomime. Every one we had met on our journeys rushed up and shook us by the hand. First a Belgian doctor, from Dr. Lilias Hamilton's unit in Podgoritza. He said Mrs.

The news of the declaration of war by Russia produced immense enthusiasm in the principality, and the people now felt that they were in a position to fight out with the Turks the quarrel of four hundred years. With the Prince and his staff, I went to the new headquarters at Orealuk, where he had a little villa nearly midway between the pass to the plain of Niksich and Podgoritza.

"Impossible!" replied the other; "no Montenegrin would dare to come here now." Finally came the doctor, an Italian, and we had an excursion into general politics, after which another coffee and cigarette, and then, with the visa of the bimbashi, we were permitted to move on to Podgoritza.

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