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Updated: June 4, 2025
We made it early in the morning, and, the wind being fair and the harbour easy of access, without waiting for a pilot we stood on, having two small islands on the eastern side, and a larger one to the westward. Vavau appeared of uniform height.
Their wish at once was to extend the sphere of their labours. "In April, 1831, King George, now himself well able to expound the gospel, with twenty-four sail of canoes, visited Finau, chief of Vavau, who had once sent for instruction to the missionaries at Tonga. With the king went the faithful missionary Peter, bearing a letter from Messrs. Thomas and Turner.
Of this Tonga group which we are leaving there are numerous islands the first collection to the north, called the Haabai group, while further north is that of Vavau all governed by different chiefs, who spend their time in fighting with each other.
"I cannot see the crime now," I said. "I've gone after skulls before to-day. I brought a hundred of them up to Vavau for a German scientist last year. He was taking them home to European museums to prove that the Polynesians of ten centuries back had bigger brains than the niggers of to-day." "Yes, I know that," gurgled Holman; "but Leith oh, damn it! I can't get you to understand!
They were soon on board, and arrived safely in Fiji, where they remained till the death of the king enabled them to return to Vavau. From this legend Byron draws a romantic account of Neuha's Cave in his poem of "The Island." As our friend had not described the first cave to which he took us, we were surprised and delighted with it.
The reply to any expostulation was, `We can labour when you are gone: let us while you stay learn how to worship God. Afterwards two native teachers were sent to Vavau, till a missionary could be spared for them. "Finau, who had himself once strongly opposed the Christians, now met with opposition from one of his own chiefs, who had been absent at Fiji.
Now just listen to what I have written in my own private log." He stepped along to the deck-house, entered his cabin, and came back with the private log aforesaid. "Here, listen to this: "'Vavau, Tonga Islands, May 3, 1889. This evening Captain Hendry and Mr. Chard, the supercargo, came on board at six o'clock, accompanied by several white men and a number of loose Samoan women.
A flash of remembrance seemed to come to him, for he smiled and said, "Coira, we'll go to Vavau." "Anywhere!" said she. "Anywhere!" "So that we go together." "Yes," she said, gently, "so that we two go together."
"It's in the South Pacific," said he, "not so very far from Samoa and Fiji and other groups that you will have heard about, and its name is Vavau. It's one of the Tongans. It's a high, volcanic island, not a flat, coral one like the southern Tongans.
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