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Updated: June 11, 2025
APRIL 27th. I set out on a journey to Coquimbo, and thence through Guasco to Copiapo, where Captain Fitz Roy kindly offered to pick me up in the Beagle. The distance in a straight line along the shore northward is only 420 miles; but my mode of travelling made it a very long journey. I bought four horses and two mules, the latter carrying the luggage on alternate days.
He mentioned a curious coincidence which then happened: he was playing at cards, when a German, one of the party, got up, and said he would never sit in a room in these countries with the door shut, as, owing to his having done so, he had nearly lost his life at Copiapo.
The union of a cloudless sky, low temperature, and a furious gale of wind, must be, I should think, in all parts of the world an unusual occurrence. June 29th We gladly travelled down the valley to our former night's lodging, and thence to near the Agua amarga. On July 1st we reached the valley of Copiapo.
Coast-road to Coquimbo Great Loads carried by the Miners Coquimbo Earthquake Step-formed Terrace Absence of recent Deposits Contemporaneousness of the Tertiary Formations Excursion up the Valley Road to Guasco Deserts Valley of Copiapo Rain and Earthquakes Hydrophobia The Despoblado Indian Ruins Probable Change of Climate River-bed arched by an Earthquake Cold Gales of Wind Noises from a Hill Iquique Salt Alluvium Nitrate of Soda Lima Unhealthy Country Ruins of Callao, overthrown by an Earthquake Recent Subsidence Elevated Shells on San Lorenzo, their decomposition Plain with embedded Shells and fragments of Pottery Antiquity of the Indian Race.
In the porphyritic conglomerate formation, in its lower and middle parts, there is very rarely any evidence, with the exception of the small quartz pebbles at Jajuel near Aconcagua, and of the single pebble of granite at Copiapo, of the existence of neighbouring land: in the upper parts, however, and especially in the district of Copiapo, the number of thoroughly well-rounded pebbles of compact porphyries make me believe, that, as during the prolonged accumulation of the gypseous formation the lower beds had already been locally upheaved and exposed to wear and tear, so it was with the porphyritic conglomerate.
In Northern Chile, from the extreme infrequency of rain, or even of weather foreboding rain, the probability of accidental coincidences becomes very small; yet the inhabitants are here most firmly convinced of some connection between the state of the atmosphere and of the trembling of the ground: I was much struck by this when mentioning to some people at Copiapo that there had been a sharp shock at Coquimbo: they immediately cried out, "How fortunate! there will be plenty of pasture there this year."
After spending one day at Ballenar I set out, on the 10th, for the upper part of the valley of Copiapo. We rode all day over an uninteresting country. I am tired of repeating the epithets barren and sterile.
The inhabitants heard with the greatest envy of the rain at Coquimbo; from the appearance of the sky they had hopes of equally good fortune, which, a fortnight afterwards, were realised. I was at Copiapo at the time; and there the people, with equal envy, talked of the abundant rain at Guasco.
Northward of Concepcion, as far as Copiapo, the shores of the Pacific consist, with the exception of some small tertiary basins, of gneiss, mica- schist, altered clay-slate, granite, greenstone and syenite: hence the coast from Tres Montes to Copiapo, a distance of 1,200 miles, and I have reason to believe for a much greater space, is almost similarly constituted.
Corfield's house at Valparaiso. Coast-road to Coquimbo. Great loads carried by the miners. Coquimbo. Earthquake. Step-formed terraces. Absence of recent deposits. Contemporaneousness of the Tertiary formations. Excursion up the valley. Road to Guasco. Deserts. Valley of Copiapo. Rain and Earthquakes. Hydrophobia. The Despoblado. Indian ruins. Probable change of climate.
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