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Updated: May 10, 2025
From this commanding point of view Mont Blanc is visible in all his majesty vast, boundless, solemn, incomprehensible with his Aiguilles de Tour, d'Argentiere, Verte, du Dru, de Charmoz, du Midi, etcetera, around him; his white head in the clouds, his glacial drapery rolling into the vale of Chamouni, his rocks and his pine-clad slopes toned down by distance into fine shadows.
All this while we sit on a rock at the foot of the Mauvais Pas, looking out upon the green glacier, which here piles itself up finely, and above to the Aiguilles de Charmoz and the innumerable ice-pinnacles that run up to the clouds, while our muleteer is getting his breakfast. This is his third breakfast this morning.
Have you climbed it?" "Yes." "There is a crack, I believe a good place to get you into training." Chayne laughed with the enjoyment of a man who recollects a stiff difficulty overcome. "Yes, to the right of the Col between the Grépon and the Charmoz. There is a step half way up otherwise there is very little hold and the crack is very steep."
If you have ever gone up the Mer de Glace to the Tacul, you saw a magnificent specimen of this sort on your right hand, just opposite the Tacul, in the Glacier de Trelaporte, which comes down from the Aiguille de Charmoz. This explains our pebble-ridge.
A minute ago I was sitting here alone now you are both here and together. Madame, it was a kind thought which brought you both here to me at once." "To whom else should we come?" said Sylvia with a smile, "since it was you, Michel, who would not let me ascend the Aiguille des Charmoz when I wanted to."
It will be a day in your life which you will never forget. Therefore you want it to be as complete as possible is it not so? It is a good rock-climb, the Aiguille des Charmoz yes. But the Argentière is more complete. There is a glacier, a rock traverse, a couloir up a rock-cliff, and at the top of that a steep ice-slope. And that is not all.
"It seems that he had climbed for a few days with one of the Kronigs and Dupont, and they had done some hair-raising things on the Aiguilles. Dupont told me that they had found a new route up the Montanvert side of the Charmoz. He said that Hollond climbed like a 'diable fou' and if you know Dupont's standard of madness you will see that the pace must have been pretty hot.
Thus augmented, the river is named the Mer de Glace, or sea of ice, and continues its downward course; but here it encounters what may be styled "the narrows," between the crags at the base of the Aiguille Charmoz and Aiguille du Moine, through which it steadily forces its way, though compressed to much less than half its width by the process.
Close beside the path by which travellers ascend the Montanvert from the valley of Chamouni, on the right hand, where it first begins to rise among the pines, there descends a small stream from the foot of the granite peak known to the guides as the Aiguille Charmoz.
"You too spoke of that mountain," she said. Michel pressed his advantage. "And wisely, mademoiselle. If you will let me advise you, you will sleep to-morrow night at the Pavillon de Lognan and the next day climb the Aiguille d'Argentière." Sylvia looked regretfully up to the ridge of the Charmoz which during this last fortnight had greatly attracted her.
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