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To reach these, however, involved crossing the river, which was now impossible; and I reluctantly made up my mind to return on the morrow to Zemu Samdong, and thence try the other river. On my descent to the Thlonok, I found that the herbaceous plants on the terraces had grown fully two feet during the fortnight, and now presented almost a tropical luxuriance and beauty.
Thence I reached Zemu Samdong in one day, and found the vegetation there even more gay and beautiful: the gigantic lily was in full flower, and scenting the air, with the lovely red rose, called "Chirring" by the Tibetans. Neillia was blossoming profusely at my old camping-ground, to which I now returned after a month's absence. Soon after my arrival I received letters from Dr.
Camp on Zemu river Scenery Falling rocks Tukcham mountain Height of glaciers Botany Gigantic rhubarb Insects Storm Temperature of rivers Behaviour of Lachen Phipun Hostile conduct of Bhoteeas View from mountains above camp Descend to Zemu Samdong Vegetation Letters from Dorjiling Arrival of Singtam Soubah Presents from Rajah Parties collecting Arum-roots Insects Ascend Lachen river Thakya-zong Tallum Samdong village Cottages Mountains Plants Entomology Weather Halo Diseases Conduct of Singtam Soubah His character and illness Agrees to take me to Kongra Lama Tungu Appearance of country Houses Poisoning by arum-roots Yaks and calves Tibet ponies Journey to Kongra Lama Tibetan tents Butter, curds, and churns Hospitality Kinchinjhow and Chomiomo Magnificent Scenery Reach Kongra Lama Pass.
From Zemu Samdong the valley runs north-west, for two marches, to the junction of the Zemu with the Thlonok, which rises on the north-east flank of Kinchinjunga: at this place I halted for several days, while building a bridge over the Thlonok.
During my ten days' stay at Zemu Samdong, I formed a large collection of insects, which was in great part destroyed by damp: many were new, beautiful, and particularly interesting, from belonging to types whose geographical distribution is analogous to that of the vegetation. Amongst these, tropical forms were rare, except one fine black swallow-tail.
On hearing of my intention, the Phipun volunteered to take me to the frontier, which he said was only two hours distant, at Zemu Samdong, where the Lachen receives the Zemu river from the westward: this I knew must be false, but I accepted his services, and we started, accompanied by a large body of villagers, who eagerly gathered plants for me along the road.
Leave Lachoong for Tunkra pass Moraines and their vegetation Pines of great dimensions Wild currants Glaciers Summit of pass Elevation Views Plants Winds Choombi district Lacheepia rock Extreme cold Kinchinjunga Himalayan grouse Meteorological observations Return to Lachoong Oaks Ascent to Yeumtong Flats and debacles Buried pine-trunks Perpetual snow Hot springs Behaviour of Singtam Soubah Leave for Momay Samdong Upper limit of trees Distribution of plants Glacial terraces, etc.
Routes from Choongtam to Tibet frontier Choice of that by the Lachen river Arrival of Supplies Departure Features of the valley Eatable Polygonum Tumlong Cross Taktoong river Pines, larches, and other trees Chateng pool Water-plants and insects Tukcham mountain Lamteng village Inhabitants Alpine monkey Botany of temperate Himalaya European and American fauna Japanese and Malayan genera Superstitious objections to shooting Customs of people Rain Run short of provisions Altered position of Tibet frontier Zemu Samdong Imposition Vegetation Uses of pines Ascent to Thlonok river Balanophora wood for making cups Snow-beds Eatable mushrooms and Smilacina Asarabacca View of Kinchinjunga Arum-roots, preparation of for food Liklo mountain Bebaviour of my party Bridge constructed over Zemu Cross river Alarm of my party Camp on Zemu river.
Westward Chomiomo rose abruptly from the rounded hills we were on, to 22,000 feet elevation, ten miles distant. To the east of Kinchinjhow were the Cholamoo lakes, with the rugged mass of Donkia stretching in cliffs of ice and snow continuously southwards to forked Donkia, which overhung Momay Samdong.
Ferns are much scarcer in the pine-woods than elsewhere in the forest regions of the Himalaya. Our first discovery, after crossing, was of a good bridge across the Zemu, above its junction, and of a path leading down to Zemu Samdong; this was, however, scarcely traceable up either stream.
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