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Updated: June 26, 2025


Three years ago Christians were being massacred in the streets of Salé, the pirate town across the river from Rabat, and two years ago no European had been allowed to enter the Sacred City of Moulay Idriss, the burial-place of the lawful descendant of Ali, founder of the Idrissite dynasty.

Thus the Almohad portions of the walls of Fez and Rabat are built of stone, while later parts are of rubble; and the touch of European influence in certain gateways of Meknez and Fez at once situate them in the seventeenth century.

But those in the Sultan's harem of Rabat are remarkable for the fact that, while designed on current European models, they are proportioned in size to the Imperial dignity, so that a Dutch "grandfather" becomes a wardrobe, and the box-clock of the European mantelpiece a cupboard that has to be set on the floor.

Six months ago they had abandoned their houses and followed him They had passed from Mequinez to Rabat, from Rabat to Mazagan, from Mazagan to Mogador, from Mogador to Marrakesh, and finally from Marrakesh through the treacherous Beni Magild to Fez. At every step their numbers had increased but their substance had diminished, for only the destitute had joined them.

The Sultan's palace, a large modern building on the familiar Arab lines, lies in a treeless and gardenless waste enclosed by high walls and close above the blue Atlantic. The sun was already beating down on the great plain thronged with horsemen and with the native population of Rabat on mule-back and foot.

The mysterious rumour which is the Voice of the Bazaar rose about us like the wind in a palm-oasis; the Black Guard fired a salute from an adjoining hillock; the clouds of red dust flung up by wheeling horsemen thickened and then parted, and a white-robed rider sprang out from the tent of the Sacrifice with something red and dripping across his saddle-bow, and galloped away toward Rabat through the shouting.

In spite of the new French road between Rabat and Marrakech the memory of such tales rises up insistently from every mile of the level red earth and the desolate stony stretches of the bled.

With the first cock crow in the village below, long before the bell, I left my room. I wanted air to breathe. I passed Abonus on the broad stairway. He strode up with unwonted vigor, bearing a heavy caldron of water as if it had been straw. His gown was tumbled and dusty; his greasy rabat hung awry about his neck. I had it in my head to speak with him, but could not.

Since 1912, in spite of the immense cost and the difficulty of obtaining labour, the following has been done: Casablanca. A jetty 1900 metres long has been planned: 824 metres finished December, 1917. Small jetty begun 1916, finished 1917 length 330 metres. Quays 747 metres long already finished. 16 steam-cranes working. Warehouses and depots covering 41,985 square metres completed. Rabat.

The history of what now happened is given by Don Luys de Marmol Caravajal in his "Descripcion general de Affrica," which was printed in Granada, "en casa de Rene Rabat impresor de libros año de 1573," or only some twenty years or so after these occurrences; it is set forth in his chapter entitled "Como Andrea Doria fue en buscar de these occurrences; it is set forth in his chapter Dragut Arraez."

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