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Updated: June 18, 2025
"It is long I have not hear. We both old now. I hurt my knee on the ice when I come down from Nulato for caribou." "Why do you have two names?" "Unookuk, Nulato name. My father big Nulato Shamán. Him killed, mother killed, everybody killed in Koyukuk massacre. They forget kill me. Me kid. Russians find Unookuk in big wood. Russians give food.
Yet one will travel two hundred and fifty miles up the Porcupine till Canada is reached and pass not more than three white men's cabins, all of them trappers; one will travel three hundred and fifty miles up the Koyukuk before the first white man's cabin is reached, and as many miles up the Innoko and the Iditarod and find no white men save wood-choppers.
There had been some trouble of this sort at this mission. The great northern gold seekers' wave of '97 and '98 threw a numerous band of prospectors up the Kobuk as well as up the Koyukuk. The wave had receded and left on the Kobuk but one little pool behind it, a handful of men who found something better than "pay" on the Shungnak, a few miles away.
So the Colonel filled in the breach with "My old Kentucky Home," which he sang with much feeling, if not great art. This performance restored harmony and a gentle reflectiveness. Father Wills told about his journey up here ten years before and of a further expedition he'd once made far north to the Koyukuk.
Augmented as our party was into seven men, three sleds, and nineteen or twenty dogs, trail breaking would not be so arduous and progress would be much accelerated. There was good hope, moreover, that the heavy snow was confined to the Koyukuk valley and that when we passed out of it we should find better going.
"What river did you come by?" "Same as you go by the Yukon. Indians up yonder call it the Never-Know-What, and the more you find out about it, the better you think the name." "Did you do any good at Forty Mile?" "Not enough to turn my head, so I tried the Koyukuk and other diggins too." "Hear that, Schiff?" he roared at his bandaged friend. "Never say die!
Order being restored, the travellers got new harness for the dogs, new boots for themselves, and set out for the white trading post, thirty miles above. Here, having at last come into the region of settlements, they agreed never again to overtax the dogs. They "travelled light" out of Nulato towards the Koyukuk. The dogs simply flew over those last miles.
In the summer of 1898 a part of the stream of gold seekers, headed for the Klondike by way of Saint Michael, was deflected to the Koyukuk River by reports of recent discoveries there. A great many little steamboat outfits made their way up this river late in the season, until their excessive draught in the falling water brought them to a stand.
We came to the Buckland River and started up intending to strike the mouth of the Koyukuk but missed our mark striking forty miles above the mouth we had hard times crossing the snow-capped mountains and climbing over Glaciers breaking trails for our dogs, fixing broken sleighs and mending worn out harnesses. tieing up stranded Snow-shoes and facing death in many forms.
The dogs' feet and legs had suffered so much from the deep snow and the heavy labour of the journey out of the Koyukuk and the rough ice of the Yukon that I was compelled to have not merely moccasins but moose-hide leggings made here, coming right up to the belly and tying over the back. All the hair was worn away from the back of the legs and the skin was in many places raw.
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