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Updated: June 16, 2025
The first destination of the up-country traveller in Java is Buitenzorg, the Dutch "Sans Souci," containing the Governor-General's rural Palace, the houses of Court officials, and the superb Botanical Garden, which ranks first among the horticultural triumphs of the world.
This, the Hyde Park of Batavia, is where the beauty and fashion of the capital take the air in the cool of the day. The effect of this get-up was somewhat marred by his mount a Deli pony so small that it took the rider all his time to keep his feet from dragging along the ground. We left the next day at 11.30 a.m., by train, for Buitenzorg.
As only two battalions of troops were left it was considered impolitic that he should know it, therefore the men were marched past him first when he was dining in the capital, and then despatched by train to represent other battalions, and march past him once again on the occasion of his visit to Buitenzorg the following day.
Fuller details of the gardens and environs of Buitenzorg may be found in the handbook published by Messrs. G. Kolff and Co., Batavia. One need not be wholly a scientific investigator to appreciate the beauties of Buitenzorg.
There are barracks at Weltevreden, and at Meester Cornelis in the capital, and additional accommodation has been recently provided at Buitenzorg. The fleet is stationed at Soerabaia, a town which possesses the best harbour in Java, and which is conveniently situated at the other end of the island. There are, however, a few ships always stationed at Batavia.
Advancing and returning from his victim, sometimes just drawing blood, until the poor wretch faints from fright, and is brought to with cold water, only to re-undergo fresh sufferings, until at length the heart is reached, and death puts an end to his tortures. We returned to Batavia in a week, heartily sick of Buitenzorg and all its surroundings.
Among the fields were scattered groups of tropical trees, palms, and bamboos; and more than once we caught far-off glimpses of high mountains. The whole landscape was clothed in a supreme verdure. As we approached the neighbourhood of Buitenzorg, the sky suddenly became overcast.
Buitenzorg occupies an ideal position between the blue and violet peaks of Gedeh and Salak, the guardian mountains of the fairy spot, perennially green with spring-like freshness, from the daily showers sweeping across the valley from one or other of the lofty crests, and possessing a delicious climate at an altitude of eight hundred feet.
Here he appealed to a Dutch gentleman who could speak English, and wrote down the name, W-o-r-s-f-o-l-d. "Tell Mr. X that Mynheer Listen, I will spell it W-o-r," etc. "Oh, never mind; tell him that the Englishman is going to Buitenzorg to-morrow." "The English gentleman is going to Buitenzorg to-morrow." "What Englishman?" "Mynheer Veasfolt." "Who?" "Mynheer Veasfold. I will spell it W-o-r," etc.
The heat of the sun, therefore, is tempered by a rainfall which is not only very heavy, but very uniform; and when Batavia is steaming with moist heat, and the plains of the interior are scorched and dry, in Buitenzorg the gardens are still verdant and the air still tonic.
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