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Updated: June 1, 2025


Now and again a bevy of Turkish ladies glided by: mere peripatetic bundles of white linen, closely-veiled and yellow-slippered; or a Greek in his white petticoat, fierce in aspect and armed to the teeth; or an Armenian merchant, Arnauts, Bashi-Bazouks, French Spahis, the Bedouins of the desert, but half-disguised as civilised troops, while occasionally there appeared, amidst the heterogeneous throng, the plain suit of grey dittoes worn by the travelling Englishman, or the more or less simple female costumes that hailed from London or Paris.

These ill-disciplined troops are assembled every where, in order that they may be ready to attack whenever a disturbance occurs between the Druses and Maronites. I consider, however, that the Arnauts are much more to be feared than either the Druses or the Maronites, through whose territories we afterwards journeyed without experiencing, in a single instance, either insult or injury.

River Mishmir Saida Arnauts Desert-path Residence of Lady Hester Stanhope Beyrout The consul's Uncomfortable quarters Sickness The Bazaar Vexatious delays Departure from Beyrout Beautiful views Syrian costumes Damascus Aspect of the city House of the consul. June 20th.

"It was all very well to dissemble his love," quoted Mr Moynham; "but, why did he kick us down-stairs?" "The chief! which chief, or thief?" said dad sternly. He did not feel particularly pleased with the Arnauts or their leader. "I've had enough of the scoundrels already, and the sooner I lose sight of them the better! What do you mean by the chief?"

But the cowardly drunkard had fled at the first onset, with all his Arnauts; panic spread rapidly; and the whole force of five thousand men fled before eight hundred Turks, leaving four hundred men dead on the field, of whom three hundred and fifty belonged to the sacred battalion. The Turks, occupied with gathering a trophy of heads, neglected to pursue. But the work was done.

The Arnauts and Albanians, of whom these refugees were almost entirely composed, cried from the windows that they were willing to surrender upon an assurance that they would be exempted from the massacre to which the town was doomed; if not, they threatened to fire on the 'aides de camp', and to defend themselves to the last extremity.

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