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Updated: June 23, 2025
The Mexican capital interested me greatly. The cathedral, which, up to that time, I had supposed to be in a debased rococo style, I found to be of a simple, noble Renaissance character, and of real dignity.
They sipped theology with the air of connoisseurs; they drank down Hebrew virtues with a vigorous relish. Then came a rococo and affected age, neat, conceited, and trim; yet in the middle of that stood out a great rugged figure like Johnson, full to the brim of impassioned force. Then again the intellect, the poetry of the nation stirred and woke.
The virtuosos of personality, the strange Rococo original types, were the forbears of the literary Storm and Stress writers, the artistic reformers, the big and little demagogues. The pedants of the Pigtail, on the other hand, were the prophets of the pipe-clay, the bureaucracy, the rationalistic mechanical training of young and old in church and school.
The treasury also contains some curious rococo painted vestments, apparently in water-colour on silk. To the right of the choir, in a chapel just outside the sacristy, is a reredos of repoussé silver two big angels kneeling below, and God the Father above a Madonna and Child with painted faces, the rest of the figures being in relief.
Of late years the agents for photo-enlarging companies have invaded the mountains and have reaped a harvest; for if there be one curse of civilization that our hillsman craves, it is a huge tinted "family group" in an abominable rococo frame. There is an almanac in the cabin, but no clock. "What does man need of a clock when he has a good-crowin' rooster?"
He entered the gilded elevator, stepped out on the sixth floor into a tiny, rococo, public reception-room. Nobody was there besides himself; Agatha's maid came presently, and he turned and followed her into the large and very handsome parlour belonging to the suite which Agatha was occupying with Mrs. Vendenning for the few days that they were to stop in town.
They seemed to take his clothes as a matter of course. He was glad. He wanted so much to be a credit to Istra. Returning from the dining-room to the common room, he passed a group standing in a window recess and looking away from him. He overheard: "Who is the remarkable new person with the orange tie and the rococo buckle on his jacket belt the one that just went through?
"It seems to me delightfully rococo. But how do I know? You're mistress of these things, in contact with the highest wisdom. You occupy a position, moreover, thanks to which your carriage well, by this time, in the eye of London, also occupies one." But she was going out, and he mustn't stand in her way.
Obediently I took the trinket from him, and, examining it as well as I might, saw that a letter was engraved upon it, one of those ornamental initials surrounded by rococo scrolls and flourishes. "What letter does it bear?" asked the man in a strangled voice. "It looks very like the letter 'Y," I answered
That is right and commendable, for those words have been taken from real life, from experience by the senses, whereas, as a rule, we almost always fabricate lifeless scholastic terms for such things. The Rococo in the plastic arts presupposes the Renaissance, and I believe it has even been called the Renaissance gone crazy.
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