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Updated: May 22, 2025
"Captain Burton is somewhat recovered, and, though unfit to travel, insists on starting in the canoe to explore the head of the lake the chief, Kannina, offering to accompany them. Their object is to examine the river which is said to fall into it. They start in two canoes, the chief and Captain Burton being in the largest. In eight days they arrive at Uvira.
This intention soon reached the ears of Kannina, who, fearing that he might thus lose much cloth, threw obstacles in the way, and most unjustly demanded as large a passport-fee for my crossing as had been given to the other chief; which demand we were obliged to comply with, or the men would not take up an oar.
These necklaces are never taken off, so at night, or resting-time, the wearer on lying down places a block of wood or stone beneath his head, to prevent the wire from galling. This concession of the chief was given under the proviso that Kannina would not object, which, strange to say, he promised not to do; and hopes were entertained of an early departure.
The Beluch guard received a present of cloth; they seemed very glad the land march was at an end. In that respect we felt the same as our men; but we found ourselves in the hands of a very ill-disposed chief, called Kannina tyrannical, and, as such savages invariably are, utterly unreasonable.
It was settled that we should go in two canoes; Captain Burton, with Kannina, in a very large one, paddled by forty men at once, and I in another considerably smaller our party to pay all expenses; and, in fact, to do Kannina's business in consideration of his protection.
On arriving here, we were so disabled by sickness Captain Burton utterly, and I suffering from ophthalmia, and a weakness in the lower extremities resembling paralysis that my companion proposed sending our Ras-cafila, Sheikh Said, across the lake to bargain for the dhow, and applied to Kannina for the means of transport.
The sides of the lake are thickly inhabited by numerous negro tribes, among whom are the Wabembe cannibals, into whose territory the Arabs dare not venture. The explorers took up their abode in the deserted house of an Arab merchant, at a small village called Kawele; but, unfortunately, the chief of the place, Kannina, was a tyrannical extortioner, and caused them much trouble.
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