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Updated: May 28, 2025
Everybody wanted to know what the donkey and the young man proposed to do at Beynac. On the caravan had been painted 'Theatre de la Gaite, which threw light upon the object of the intruders. The donkey drew up in front of the inn, and the excited crowd waited with ill-contained impatience to see the company of players descend from the battered travelling trunk on wheels.
Then I remembered the good advice of the friendly Otter at Beynac with reference to going down these streams, where the water has to be watched with some attention if one does not wish to get capsized: 'Tenez-vous toujours dans le plus fort du courant.
Sarlat, where old Suzette went to sell her husband's fish, was a very important stronghold of Black Perigord in the Middle Ages, and the chief place in that Sarladais which the English kings of Norman and Angevin descent found such a tough bone to pick. The way to it from Beynac leads up steep valleys and gorges, covered with dense forest.
The more I meditated the better I liked the idea of tarrying in a spot where Arcadian simplicity of life was so unaffectedly cultivated. I resolved that I, too, would take a house at Beynac if there was one to be had, and that I would have what I figuratively termed my 'caravan' brought up here.
The child-actress was the prop of her mother and the donkey; her talent also kept the youth, who began to agitate the nerves of Beynac with his diabolical rataplan hours before each performance. One morning, soon after sunrise, the donkey, which had begun to think that this time it had really been pensioned off, was put into the shafts, and the caravan gradually disappeared upon the white road.
September came, and I was still at Beynac, although I had found another house. The fruit season was then at its height. Peaches were sold at three sous the dozen, a good melon cost about the same sum, and figs were to be had almost for nothing. On these terms quite a mountain of fruit could be placed upon the table for half a franc.
I have entered upon the tenancy of a small house beside the Dordogne at Beynac, a village a few miles below La Roque, partly crouching beneath a very high rock, and partly built upon its terraces or ledges up to the inner wall of a feudal castle that was much modified and refashioned in later ages under the pressure of two forces time, that ruins, and the eternal striving of each generation to attain its own ideal of comfort and elegance.
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