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Updated: May 17, 2025
Routes from Choongtam to Tibet frontier Choice of that by the Lachen river Arrival of Supplies Departure Features of the valley Eatable Polygonum Tumlong Cross Taktoong river Pines, larches, and other trees Chateng pool Water-plants and insects Tukcham mountain Lamteng village Inhabitants Alpine monkey Botany of temperate Himalaya European and American fauna Japanese and Malayan genera Superstitious objections to shooting Customs of people Rain Run short of provisions Altered position of Tibet frontier Zemu Samdong Imposition Vegetation Uses of pines Ascent to Thlonok river Balanophora wood for making cups Snow-beds Eatable mushrooms and Smilacina Asarabacca View of Kinchinjunga Arum-roots, preparation of for food Liklo mountain Bebaviour of my party Bridge constructed over Zemu Cross river Alarm of my party Camp on Zemu river.
Of this the Zemu afforded a curious example: during my stay at its junction with the Thlonok it was 46 degrees, or 6 degrees warmer than that river; at 1100 feet higher it was 48 degrees, and at 1100 feet higher still it was 49 degrees!
To reach these, however, involved crossing the river, which was now impossible; and I reluctantly made up my mind to return on the morrow to Zemu Samdong, and thence try the other river. On my descent to the Thlonok, I found that the herbaceous plants on the terraces had grown fully two feet during the fortnight, and now presented almost a tropical luxuriance and beauty.
Having been successful in finding a path, I took my tent and a few active lads 1000 feet up the Zemu, camping on a high rock above the forest region, at 12,070 feet; hoping thence to penetrate northwards. I left my collections in the interim at the junction of the rivers, where the sheds and an abundance of firewood were great advantages for preserving the specimens.
All my attempts to advance up the Zemu were fruitlesss and a snow bridge by which I had hoped to cross to the opposite bank was carried away by the daily swelling river, while the continued bad weather prevented any excursions for days together.
My little tent was pitched in a commanding situation, on a rock fifty feet above the Zemu, overlooking the course of that river to its junction with the Thlonok.
Ferns are much scarcer in the pine-woods than elsewhere in the forest regions of the Himalaya. Our first discovery, after crossing, was of a good bridge across the Zemu, above its junction, and of a path leading down to Zemu Samdong; this was, however, scarcely traceable up either stream.
Thence I reached Zemu Samdong in one day, and found the vegetation there even more gay and beautiful: the gigantic lily was in full flower, and scenting the air, with the lovely red rose, called "Chirring" by the Tibetans. Neillia was blossoming profusely at my old camping-ground, to which I now returned after a month's absence. Soon after my arrival I received letters from Dr.
We encamped the second night on Chateng, and the following day made a long march, crossing the Zemu, and ascending half-way to Tallum Samdong. The alpine foliage was rapidly changing colour; and that of the berberry turning scarlet, gave a warm glow to the mountain above the forest.
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