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Updated: June 4, 2025


I question if it will ever be a country worth settling in. We were anxious to spend the Sabbath at Port Moresby, so, leaving the most of our party, who were too tired to come with us, to rest till Monday, Mr. McFarlane, Ruatoka, and I set off on our return very early on Saturday morning, and had strangely difficult work in getting down the mountain side and along the river.

The native name is Round. We found the falls in a deep gorge formed by the west end of Astrolabe and east end of Vetura Range. On each side of the gorge the mountains run sharp down, in many places precipitous rocks. The falls are E. from Port Moresby, E.S.E. from Moumili, and S.E. from Vetura proper. They are grand, and well worth seeing. I wish we had seen them from below.

Captain John Moresby, of H.M.S. Basilisk, the leader in question, in the account of his discoveries in New Guinea, published in 1876, says: "I trust that the work done by H.M.S. Basilisk, in waters hitherto untracted, on shores hitherto untrodden, and among races hitherto unknown by Europeans will be held to call for some account."

A continuous range of mountains from 600 to 5,000 feet in height, extends the entire length of the islands nearest their western coast, reaching their maximum elevations on Moresby Island, between Darwin Sound, and the head of Cumshewa Inlet.

Smithe, Commissioner of Lands and Works of the Province of British Columbia: SIR: Having completed the examination of the country bordering on Skidegate Inlet and Channel, embracing the southern portion of Graham Island, and the north end of Moresby, I proceeded to explore the west coast of Graham Island, North Island, the north coast of Graham island from Cape Knox eastward to Massett Inlet, also Viago Sound, Naden Harbor and Massett Inlet, penetrating to the heads of all of the inlets, bays, harbors and sounds, and following up the principal streams flowing into these waters from three to ten miles; concluding the circumnavigation of the islands at the mouth of the Yakoun River, that portion herein described, comprising a shore line of about five hundred miles.

This becomes still more evident when we consider that Moresby also was unable to take his ship through to the northern shores. Here, another lengthy stay was made and an extensive survey, comprising the laying out of a township, as may be seen by the accompanying map. Then the little squadron went right up into the Gulf of Papua and down again as far as 11° S. latitude.

The northern and southern points, and the greater part of the east coast, are low, and faced with mud banks, and therefore without coral. The chart represents the islands of this group as fringed by reefs. With regard to GREAT NICOBAR, Captain Moresby informs me, that it is fringed by reefs of coral, extending between two and three hundred yards from the shore.

Since our arrival here we find the thermometer from 82 to 84 degrees during the day, and as low as 68 degrees, more frequently 70 degrees, during the night. By bearings we are only about twenty miles in straight course from Port Moresby. 21st.

Captain Moresby, whose opportunities for observation during his survey of the Maldiva and Chagos Archipelagoes have been unrivalled, informs me, that the upper part or zone of the steep-sided reefs, on the inner and outer coasts of the atolls in both groups, invariably consists of coral, and the lower parts of sand.

Captain Moresby found on one water-washed reef the marks of wells and graves, which were excavated when it supported an islet.

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