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Updated: May 26, 2025
She is young, but she can't marry again because she has a husband already." At Ghilendzhik all meals were served on the verandah, and one lived constantly in touch with the varying moods of the sea. My hostess was a talker, ready to sit to any hour of the night chatting of her life and of Russia. It was very pleasant to listen to her.
"Next summer, when I came down to Ghilendzhik, I said to my husband, 'Let us go and see our house and land. Accordingly we went along to look. What was our astonishment to find it occupied by another old crone. I went up to the door and said: "'Good-day! "'Good-day! said a cracked old voice. 'And who might you be? "'I might be the landlady, I said. 'How is it you're here?
We sat together on the balcony after tea, with a big plate of grapes between us, and I heard all that the world had to say at Ghilendzhik. A burning topic was the ruin that the sea had made of the verandah wall. "The sea has been gradually gaining on us," said my friend. "When we came here, the village Council reckoned on that.
Here are many wild fruits, plums, pears, blackberries, walnuts, grapes, ripening in such superfluity that none value them. The peasant women pick what they need; the surplus is allowed to fall and rot into the soil. I made my way to Ghilendzhik through miles of wild fruit-trees ranged in regular order.
It is an amazing testimony to the simplicity of the Russian that the upper classes behave at the seaside with little more self-consciousness than the peasant children by the village stream. When Ghilendzhik is commercialised to a Russian Brighton it will be difficult to imagine what an Eden it once was.
It was a glorious walk over the waste from Kabardinka to Ghilendzhik, with all manner of beauty and interest along the way. I left the road and cut across country, following the telegraph poles.
Half-way to Ghilendzhik there is a stone quarry, and there one may see thousands of what are called in England "Cape gooseberries," bright berries of the size and colour of big ripe strawberries. They peeped out shyly everywhere among the tall grasses and the ground-scrub.
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