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Updated: May 17, 2025
Smithe, Commissioner of Lands and Works of the Province of British Columbia: SIR: Having completed the examination of the country bordering on Skidegate Inlet and Channel, embracing the southern portion of Graham Island, and the north end of Moresby, I proceeded to explore the west coast of Graham Island, North Island, the north coast of Graham island from Cape Knox eastward to Massett Inlet, also Viago Sound, Naden Harbor and Massett Inlet, penetrating to the heads of all of the inlets, bays, harbors and sounds, and following up the principal streams flowing into these waters from three to ten miles; concluding the circumnavigation of the islands at the mouth of the Yakoun River, that portion herein described, comprising a shore line of about five hundred miles.
A forced detention at Skidegate for the recovery of a disabled hand, afforded an unexpected opportunity of becoming acquainted with Indian life in their village lodges and fishing camps, which I will more fully describe in another letter.
So abundant, owing to the swamps filled with decaying trees, through which it flows, is generally highly colored, and though perhaps not unwholesome, is not very palatable. There are, however, exceptional streams, especially at Skidegate, which, having their sources in the hills, are clear and pure.
On the thirty-third day after leaving Massett, I returned to Skidegate through the Canoe Passage and Skidegate Channel, where I again refitted for the west coast of Graham Island and the Virago Sound country, next to be traversed.
I refitted at Skidegate, hiring a stronger canoe and two Hydah Indians, known as Sam and Tom, who, together, were well acquainted with the principal waters to be traversed.
The Douglass fir and yellow cedar or cypress, furnishes the only lumber which can be profitably exported from the Province. The former is not found on the Queen Charlotte group of islands, and the latter does not grow in sufficient quantities south of Skidegate Inlet to furnish saw-logs in any considerable quantity.
It is broader and deeper than the Ya-koun, navigable for canoes between two and-a-half and three miles, but is only about ten miles in length. The river Tlell emptying into Queen Charlotte Sound twenty-five miles north of Skidegate Inlet, is the principal stream discharging on the outer coast of the island. Canoes can ascend it two or three miles at high tide.
Some of them are very strong in the arms, an Indian of Skidegate beating me at "tug of war." Many are expert swimmers, sometimes diving from their canoes into the rough sea, and bringing out wounded seal which have sunk to the bottom. One of my men performed such a feat, springing from the top of a great rock, where the ocean was breaking. They are intelligent and quick to learn from observation.
He is a cousin of Nin-Ging-Wash, younger in appearance, though nearly as old. They quarrelled bitterly over their rank for a long time, Nin-Ging-Wash, by means of his more liberal potlatches finally prevailing, but not until two of their adherants had been killed. Skidegate handed me a package of papers, chiefly letters of recommendation from ship masters, missionaries and others.
Maynard, the well known, enterprising and plucky artist of Victoria, and Thomas, who, besides being so excellent in the management of the canoe, knew the coast very thoroughly as far south as Skidegate, about 100 miles distant.
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