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Far less exciting was the history of Pontack's, a French ordinary in Abchurch Lane which played a conspicuous part in the social life of London during the eighteenth century.
'When you shall come to be my age, young sir, Saxon answered, 'you may know better than to decry a comfortable country hostel. 'Very like, sir, very like! the gallant answered, with a careless laugh. 'For all that, being mine own age, I feel the wilds of Wiltshire and the inns of Bruton to be a sorry change after the Mall, and the fare of Pontack's or the Coca Tree.
"At Locket's, Brown's, and at Pontack's enquire What modish kickshaws the nice beaux desire, What fam'd ragouts, what new invented sallat, Has best pretensions to regale the palate." Adam Locket, the founder of the house, lived until about 1688, and was succeeded by his son Edward who was at the head of affairs until 1702.
'Tis true that if La Jeune were dancing, or if Mrs. Bracegirdle or Mrs. Oldfield came upon the boards, we would hum and clap, but it was the fine woman that we applauded rather than the actress. 'And when the play was over you went doubtless to supper and so to bed? 'To supper, certainly. Sometimes to the Rhenish House, sometimes to Pontack's in Abchurch Lane.
The ordinary was evidently in the same class as Pontack's and Locket's, as may be inferred from it being classed with the latter in one contemporary reference: "Next these we welcome such as firstly dine At Locket's, at Gifford's, or with Shataline." Allusions in the plays of the period also show it was the resort of those who thought quite as much of spending money as of eating.
A French refugee in London in 1697 took pride in the fact that whereas it was difficult to obtain a good meal elsewhere "those who would dine at one or two guineas per head are handsomely accommodated at our famous Pontack's." The owner of this ordinary is sketched in brief by Evelyn, who frequently dined under his roof.
When Leigh Hunt wrote "The Town" he declared that it was no longer known where it EXACTLY stood, but more recent investigators have discovered that Drummond's banking house covers its site. As was the case with Pontack's in the city, Locket's was pre-eminently the resort of the "smart set." The prices charged are proof enough of THAT, even though they were not always paid.
The poet, indeed, expressed the unanimous verdict of the town when he asked: "What wretch would nibble on a hanging shelf, When at Pontack's he may regale himself?"
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