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Updated: June 2, 2025


We brought back details concerning the three great parallel Wadys; the Salma, the Damah, that "Arabian Arcadia," and the 'Aslah-Aznab. We dug into, and made drawings and plans of, the two principal ruined cities, Shuwak and Shaghab, which probably combined to form the classical <Greek>; and of the two less important sites, El-Khandaki and Umm Amil.

Beyond these narrows the valley bends to the south-west and feeds the Wady Aznab, which falls into the sea south of the Damah. A little north of west rises profiled the great Sharr, no longer a ridge with a coping of four horns, but a tall and portly block, from whose summit spring heads and peaks of airy blue-pink.

Fronting us rose the twin granitic peaks of Jebel Mutadan, one with a stepped side like an unfinished pyramid. They are separated from the Damah by a rough and stony divide; and ruins with furnaces are reported to be found in their valley-drain, which feeds the great Wady 'Amud.

The Nile-drinkers turned up their fastidious noses at the supply, but Lieutenant Amir, who had graduated in the rough campaigning-school of the Sudan, pronounced it "regular." The nighting-place on the Damah was as pretty and picturesque as the Majra was tame and uncouth.

"The landscape smiles Calm in the sun, and silent are the hills And valleys, and the blue serene of air." The latter still claim it as their northern limit; but the intrusive Egypto-Arabs have pushed their way far beyond this bourne. The head of the Damah, a great bay in the Hisma-wall to the east, is now in sight of us; and we shall pass its mouth, which debouches into the sea below Ziba.

How is it that the annalists say nothing of them? that not a vestige of tradition remains concerning any race but the Nazarenes? From Shuwak to the Wady Damah there are two roads, a direct and an indirect; the latter passing by the ruins of Shaghab. The caravan begged hard to take the former, but was summarily refused.

Lastly, a regular ascent, the Majra el-Waghir, fronts the city, sloping up to the west-north-west, and discloses a view of the Jibal el-Tihamah: this broad incline was, some three centuries ago, the route of the Hajj-caravan. We walked down the Shaghab valley-bed, whose sides, like those of the Damah, are chevaux de frise of dead wood.

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