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Updated: May 8, 2025


In fact, it has all the accessories of an "eligible position." At the third or southern palm patch, we found the only public work which remains visible in the great Nabathaean port. The line has long ago been broken down by the Arabs; and the open waters still supply the Hajj-caravan. From this part of its banks we picked up fair specimens of saltpetre.

The Tuwayl el-Suk is nothing but an open and windy flat, where the Hajj-caravan used to camp an adjoining ridge, the Hamra el-Tuwayl, shows spalled quartz, Wasm and memorial stones. The principal formation here is the mauve-purple conglomerate before described. After riding nine miles we came unexpectedly upon a large and curious ruin, backed by the broad Wady Damah gleaming white in the sun.

His garrison consists of thirteen regulars, whose clean uniforms show discipline, and whose hale and hearty complexions testify to the excellence of the water and the air. The men are paid annually by the treasurer of the Hajj-caravan.

The Greek and Latin inscriptions of the Hauranic cities declare their origin: these, absolutely unalphabetic, refuse a single hint concerning the mysterious race which here lived and worked, and worked so nobly. And, finally, who were the Moslems that succeeded them in a later day, when the Hajj-caravan, some three centuries and a half ago, ceased to march by this road?

Lastly, a regular ascent, the Majra el-Waghir, fronts the city, sloping up to the west-north-west, and discloses a view of the Jibal el-Tihamah: this broad incline was, some three centuries ago, the route of the Hajj-caravan. We walked down the Shaghab valley-bed, whose sides, like those of the Damah, are chevaux de frise of dead wood.

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