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From Poshega Mr P. continued his route down the rich valley of the Morava, here several miles wide, to Csatsak, the residence of a bishop and a Natchalnik; where the old Turkish town is in process of being superseded by a new foundation, which, "like Poshega and all these new places, consists of a circular or square market-place, with bazar shops in the Turkish manner, and straight streets diverging from it."
Csatsak, although the seat of a Bishop and a Natchalnik, is only a village, and is insignificant when one thinks of the magnificent plain in which it stands. At every step I made in this country I thought of the noble field which it offers for a system of colonization congenial to the feelings, and subservient to the interests of the present occupants.
Thus we must pay a large price for foreign salt, when we have plenty of it at our own doors." Next day, we walked about Caranovatz. It is symmetrically built like Csatsak, but better paved and cleaner. Coronation Church of the ancient Kings of Servia. Enter the Highlands. Valley of the Ybar. First view of the High Balkan. Convent of Studenitza. Byzantine Architecture. Phlegmatic Monk.
Csatsak is old and new, but the old Turkish town has disappeared, and the new Servian Csatsak is still a foetus. The plan on which all these new places are constructed, is simple, and consists of a circular or square market place, with bazaar shops in the Turkish manner, and straight streets diverging from them. I put up at the khan, and then went to the Natchalnik's house to deliver my letter.
"There comes the doctor," said the lady, and the figure with the Turkish riding cloak thus announced himself: Doctor. "I' bin a' Wiener." Author. "Gratulire: dass iss a' lustige Stadt." Doctor. "Glaub'ns mir, lust'ger als Csatsak." Author. "I' glaub's." The Judge, a sedate, elderly, and slightly corpulent man, asked me what route I had pursued, and intended to pursue.
Ushitza, instead of appearing a town, looked like a straggling assemblage of cottages and gardens. The best view is that below the bridge, looking to the castle. Poshega. The river Morava. Arrival at Csatsak. A Viennese Doctor. Project to ascend the Kopaunik. Visit the Bishop. Ancient Cathedral Church. Greek Mass. Karanovatz. Emigrant Priest. Albania Disorders. Salt Mines.
The Natchalnik was not at home, but was gracefully represented by his young wife, a fair specimen of the beauty of Csatsak; and presently the Deputy and the Judge came to see us. A dark complexioned, good-natured looking man, between thirty and forty, now entered, with an European air, German trowsers and waistcoat, but a Turkish riding cloak.
I very naturally took out the map to learn where Procupli was; on which the Bin Bashi asked me if I was a military engineer! "That boy will be the death of me!" so nobody but military engineers are permitted to look at maps. For a month I had seen or heard nothing of Europe and Europeans except the doctor at Csatsak, and his sage maxims about Greek masses and Hungarian law-suits.
At the new church a stone is built into the wall, having the fragment of an inscription: and various other stones are to be seen, one with a figure sculptured on it. Continuing our way down the rich valley of the Morava, which is here several miles wide, and might contain ten times the present population, we arrived at Csatsak, which proved to be as symmetrically laid out as Poshega.
My mind is made up to follow your advice." We now went in a body, and paid our visit to the Bishop of Csatsak, who lives in the finest house in the place; a large well-built villa, on a slight eminence within a grassy inclosure. The Bishop received us in an open kiosk, on the first floor, fitted all round with cushions, and commanding a fine view of the hills which inclose the plain of the Morava.
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