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Updated: May 24, 2025
The other branches of the Sherif's revenues were the profits derived from the sale of provisions at Mekka, of which, although he did not monopolize them like Mohammed Aly, yet he had always such a considerable stock on hand, as enabled him to
This contempt, as I have already remarked, in speaking of Djidda, is chiefly displayed towards the Turks, whose ignorance of the Arabic language, whose dress and manners, the meanness of their conduct whenever they cannot talk as masters; their cowardice exhibited whenever the Hadj has been assailed in its route across the Desert, and the little respect that was shown to them by the Governors of Mekka, as long as the Sherif's power was unbroken, have lowered them so much in the estimation of the Arabians, that they are held in the Hedjaz as little better than infidels; and although many of the Mekkawys are of Turkish origin, they heartily join the rest of their townsmen in vilifying the stock from which they sprang.
I shall give hereafter a more detailed description of Wady Muna, where the Hadj remains three days after its return from Arafat. We continued our route among the ruined houses of Muna, passed the short columns, at which the pilgrims throw stones, then the Sherif's palace, and issued into the open country, which continues thence towards Mezdelife, distant three hours and three quarters from Mekka.
Though our mission was to visit the Turkish prisoners, we made a point of concerning ourselves equally with the Austrians and Germans, and of entering into conversation with them. Several Ottoman prisoners in the camp were making the pilgrimage to Mecca when they were captured by the Sherif's troops and passed over to the English authorities, who interned them.
A stranger placed on the great road to Tayf, just beyond the turn of the hill, in the immediate neigh-bourhood of the Sherif's garden-house, would think himself as far removed from human society as if he were in the midst of the Nubian Desert. But this may be wholly ascribed to the apathy of the inhabitants, and their indifference for agricultural pursuits.
This ought legally to be, as I was informed, ten per cent. upon all imported goods; but, in consequence of abuses which have been long practised, some articles of merchandize are charged much higher, while others pay less. During the latter period of the sherif's power, coffee was charged at five dollars the quintal, which may be computed as fifteen to twenty per cent.
While I was at Jeddah, the Medina garrison of 2000 regulars, having been long unpaid and unrationed, was said to be living on public charity. On the other hand the Hejazi Bedouins do not acknowledge any sovereignty but that of the Sherif, nor could the Sultan pretend to keep order outside the towns except through the Sherif's interposition.
The merchants suffered, however, as in the sherif's time, from the arbitrary rates of customs, and from the necessity of frequently purchasing all kinds of merchandize from the Pasha, who, while he was in the Hedjaz, seemed to be as eager in his mercantile as he was in his military pursuits.
It was now the fast of Ramadhan; but travellers are exempted by law from observing it. The woman of the house, whose husband was absent, prepared us a breakfast, for which we paid her, and remained in the house till after mid-day; we then remounted our camels, and turning by the Sherif's garden-house, situated at the eastern extremity of the suburbs, we took the high road to Wady Muna.
On both sides of the causeway, in the valley of Mekka, extend the burying-grounds, where most of the inhabitants of the city have their family tombs. A little beyond the Sherif's house just mentioned, and at the termi-nation of the Mala, stands the tomb of Abou Taleb, an uncle of Mo-hammed, and father of Aly.
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