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Updated: May 8, 2025


At the end of the gang-plank, his portliness exceeded only by his stateliness, was the great potentate His Excellency the Mahmoudieh of Assuan. With sweeping obeisances, he greeted each one in a manner only befitting those who held his provinces in such deep respect. His demeanour demanded rather a setting of pillared palace and crimson velvet than a background of castor-oil bushes and sugar-cane.

There is but one course open to you as far as I can see. When we get into the Mahmoudieh Canal, you will have to hide amongst the grain; and if you ever reach Alexandria in safety, take my advice and get out of the country at once." Helmar did not reply, he was thinking hard. He had just arrived in the country in the hopes of making a fortune.

Perceiving this, the five great ones from the far south paid court to him, addressed him "Your Excellency this" and "Your Excellency that"; and paid tribute to his lands, to his people, and his province, and expressed a desire to see his wives. The Mahmoudieh visibly swelled with pleasure. Assuan was duly investigated.

"Yes, Allah is good, we are now out of danger and have no more to fear." The rifles were collected and put away, and the dahabîeh resumed its calm appearance as it glided lazily onwards. The following morning it entered the Mahmoudieh Canal, which runs direct to Alexandria.

Six companies of the 60th Rifles, four companies of the 38th, and four of the 64th marched out from the lines at Ramleh, accompanied by seven companies of the marines with the iron-clad train. The 38th and 46th moved forward with one gun, on the left bank of the Mahmoudieh Canal; the 60th, also with a gun, moving on the right bank, while the marines advanced on the railway embankment.

It took much gentle persuasion to convey to the Mahmoudieh the Governor of the Province that the guests wished to take exercise, now that the cool of the evening was come. His Excellency was a gentleman of portly proportions, who, at some other period, may have walked.

On the side opposite Lake Mareotis rose, in the midst of luxuriant gardens, the country homes of the rich merchants of the city, of the government officials and of the consuls, painted in bright colours, sky-blue, rose or yellow, picked out with white, and here and there the great sails of boats, bound to Foueh or to Rosetta through the Mahmoudieh Canal, showed above the vegetation and seemed to be travelling on dry land.

But he did things properly, did the Mahmoudieh, showed them Kom Ombo Temple, with all the dignity of the proprietor, took them to his sugar-mills in his best donkey-drawn tram-car, and offered them almost everything in his dominions.

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