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Updated: May 25, 2025


The only novelty in the vegetation was the Fashak-tree, a creeper like a gigantic constrictor, with sweet yellow wood somewhat resembling liquorice. Signs of Arab everywhere appeared, but there were no tents. Consequently we were unable to ascertain the extent of the water-supply an important matter if this is to become the port of El-Wijh.

Stony ramps, stiff as those of Gibraltar, connect the low with the high town, the cool breezy new settlement upon the crest of the northern cliff, whose noble view of the Jebel Libn and the palm-scattered Wady el-Wijh were formerly monopolized by the fort and its round tower.

Finally, we would return to El-Wijh, via the Wady Hamz, inspecting both it and the ruins first sighted by MM. Marie and Philipin. On Friday, March 29th, I gave a breakfast, in the wooden barracks, to the officers of the Sinnar and the officials of the port. After which, some took their opium and went to sleep; while others, it being church-day, went to Mosque.

The report was confirmed by an old Arab Bash-Buzuk at El-Wijh; he declared that in his youth he had seen a tall furnace, and a quantity of scoria from which copper could be extracted, lying northwards at a distance of eighteen hours' march and five by sea. The next important feature is the Wady Salbah, the Telbah of the Chart, up whose inland continuation, the Wady el-Nejd, we shall travel.

Distant only thirty miles of coasting navigation, a line almost clear of reefs and shoals, it is the natural harbour for the pilgrim-ships, which ever run the danger of being wrecked at El-Wijh; and it deserves more notice than we have hitherto vouchsafed to it.

Good work was done by the Egyptian Staff-officers in surveying the fine harbour of El-Dumayghah, so well fitted as a refuge for pilgrim-ships when doing quarantine; and I venture upon recommending, to the English and Egyptian Governments, my remarks concerning the advisability of at once re-transferring the station to El-Wijh.

This main approach to the Arabian interior is not a fissure, like the vulgar Wadys, but rather an opening where the Ghats, or maritime chain, break to the north and south. Distant one long or two short marches from El-Wijh, its mouth is in north lat. 25 55'; and it is said to head fifteen days inland, in fact beyond El-Medinah, towards which it curves with a south-easterly bend.

We had left the Sharm Yaharr on March 21st, and returned to it on April 13th; a total of twenty-four days. The length is represented by 170 miles in round numbers: as usual, this does not include the various offsets and the by-paths explored by the members; nor do the voyages to El-Wijh and El-Haura, going and coming, figure in the line of route.

The latter measures four or five fathoms; and the water appears under a boulder in situ that projects from the southern side. The reader will now agree with me that El-Wijh is not too drouthy for a quarantine-ground. The plots of green meat lie about the water, sheltered from the burning sun by a luxuriant growth of date-trees.

A few are camped about El-Wijh; and they become more important down coast. In the eastern regions bordering upon Midian, they form large and powerful bodies, such as the Nawamisah and the Shararat, whose numbers and bravery secure for them the respect of their fighting equestrian neighbours, the Ruwala-'Anezah.

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