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Updated: June 19, 2025


Pfaffius. A change from dinner dress to traveling costume was speedily made, and I was gotovey when my friend arrived with several officers to see us off. About eight o'clock we took places in my tarantass, and drove out of the northern gate of Troitskosavsk. My traveling companion was Mr. Richard Maack, Superintendent of Public Instruction in Eastern Siberia.

It was my good fortune that Mr. Maack was obliged by etiquette to visit his friends on returning from his journey. I arranged to accompany him, and during that day and the next we called upon many persons of official and social position. These included the Governor and Vice Governor of Irkutsk, the chief of staff and heads of departments, the mayor of the city, and the leading merchants.

A tame eagle was fastened with a long chain to one of the scaffolds; he was supposed to keep other birds away and was a pet of his owner. There were many dogs walking or lying around loose, while others were tied to the posts that supported the scaffolds. The dogs of the Goldees are very intelligent. One morning Mr. Maack missed his pots which he had left the night before full of meat.

What with tea, nalifka, and a variety of solid food, we were pretty well filled during a halt of two hours. It was toward midnight when we emerged from the house to continue our journey. Maack found his tarantass at Verkne Udinsk, and as it was larger and better than mine we assigned the latter to Evan and the baggage, and took the best to ourselves.

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