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Updated: May 31, 2025
The rigid ceremonial of a Turkish court was not adapted to the character and established notions of Mohammed Aly's new subjects. The sherif, in the height of his power, resembled a great Bedouin Sheikh, who submits to be boldly and often harshly addressed. A Turkish Pasha is approached with the most abject forms of servitude.
I had some difficulty in providing myself with flesh-meat at Wady: sheep are very scarce in the whole peninsula, and no Arab is inclined to sell what he has. A flock had been sent from Suez to Tor, for the supply of Mohammed Aly's lady and her suite. I was obliged to pay twelve piastres here for a small kid.
Tousoun Pasha had very imprudently seized a great number of the Bedouins' camels, and obliged them to accompany his army, which had so terrified them, that, previous to Mohammed Aly's arrival, famine was apprehended from the want of beasts of transport. The Pasha endeavoured to restore confidence, and some of the Bedouins began to return with their beasts.
On his arrival at a village he proceeded to the Mesdjed or mosque, and recited some chapter of the Koran: the Arab inhabitants then inquired who he was, and supplied him with plenty of flour, milk, raisins, meat, &c. He was never stopped by robbers until he reached the advanced posts of Mohammed Aly's Turkish army; there he was plundered by some soldiers of all his provisions.
Relying on the respect I enjoyed in the caravan from being supposed a hadjy in some measure attached to Mohammed Aly's army, and the good-will of our guides, which I had cultivated by distributing victuals liberally amongst them ever since we left Mekka, I seized the leader's camel, made it couch down, and exclaimed, that the
His ammunition had exploded on the way, while the caravan halted at Beder, and fifty people had been killed by the accident; but Mohammed Aly had furnished him with a fresh supply; and the guns were frequently discharged, as were twelve others which stood near Mohammed Aly's tent.
Although the road from Mekka to Medina was considered safe even for caravans unarmed like ours, yet stragglers are always exposed; and had it not been for the terror with which, a few days before, Mohammed Aly's victory over the Wahabys had inspired all the neighbouring Bedouins, I should probably have been punished for my imprudence in walking on alone.
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