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Updated: June 10, 2025
... Now we approach a conclusion. We have passed Colombo, and in three or four days ought to reach Calcutta. Colombo was rather nice, warm and green and moist; but I failed to detect the spicy breeze blowing soft o'er Ceylon's isle, that the hymn led me to expect. The shops are good and full of interesting things, like small ivory elephants, silver ornaments, bangles, kimonos, and moonstones.
Ceylon's important tea estates are the property of companies, whose shares are dealt in on the London and Colombo stock exchanges. Small plantations are owned by individuals, usually the persons conducting them. One or two thousand Europeans, mainly Englishmen and Scotchmen, are employed on the important estates as managers, assistants and accountants.
KANDY, January 30th: We left Nuwara Eliya, on the morning of January 30th, for Kandy, arriving there at 2 P.M. The train passed through a country similar to that before described, only there was a greater descent, Kandy having less altitude than Nuwara Eliya. We had anticipated much of Kandy, Ceylon's ancient capital and the scene of action in the days of the old Kandyan kings.
"'What though the spicy breezes Blow soft o'er Ceylon's isle GIT up, you old cow! stumbling like that when we've just been praising you! out on a scout and can't live up to the honor any better than that? Antonio, how long have you been out here in the Plains and the Rockies?" "More than thirteen years." "It's a long time. Don't you ever get homesick?" "Not till now."
"Flashes of flambeaux looked Like Demons guarding the river of death." The last sight of Ceylon's isle revealed the fine spires of the Catholic Cathedral, which tower above the pretty harbor of Galle. MADRAS, Tuesday, January 28. We arose to find ourselves at anchor in the open sea opposite Madras. There is not a harbor upon the whole western coast of Hindostan.
Though sailors are excellent singers especially of hymn tunes I never before heard a hymn rendered so effectively on board a man-of-war as that beautiful composition by Bishop Heber, commencing "What though the spicy breezes Blow soft o'er Ceylon's isle," and which was one of the appropriate hymns for our morning Service. October 8th.
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