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Updated: June 6, 2025
The groom, instead of sitting behind, ran behind; and as the pony was fresh he had to run pretty fast. There were two roads a pukka or made road, and a cutcha road, on which the natives walked and drove their ekkas. Autolycus and the chuprassis were waiting at the station, and put me into a carriage.
We had got up before dawn to see the sunrise, but afterwards took things leisurely, as the march is short to Baramula, and our boats were to be in waiting there, and we had made all arrangements for a landau and ekkas to be in readiness to take us down to Rawal Pindi, while the Colonel returned up the Jhelum for more shooting before rejoining his wife at Bandipur.
I may emphasise here the importance of keeping one's heavy baggage in sight, herding on the ekkas in front, if possible, and keeping a wary eye and a firm hand on the drivers at all halts. The Smithsons, who had sent on their gear from Rawal Pindi some days before we got there, did not receive it in Srinagar until the 22nd of April.
Her runners, in uniform, waited beside the empty rickshaw with a puzzled look, at which she laughed, and threw a rupee to the head man. The luggage was piled and corded on three ekkas behind, and their cross-legged drivers, too, were ready. 'Chellao! she cried, crisply, and Ram Singh imperturbably lifted the reins.
The ekkas had come up from Pindi, and the sahib who had lured them to Baramula seemed astonished at my method of taking them over.
The carriage and the two ekkas had come in early, having been unloaded and then carried bodily over the "slide." A broad and smooth road, whose gentle gradient of ascent was merely sufficient to keep us level with the river bank, opened up an alluring prospect of ease and comfort.
Through its streets surge a people almost childish in their happiness, some in ekkas drawn by matched pairs of bullocks, others mounted high on the backs of trotting camels, while bands of chattering Rajputs on foot are omnipresent every grouping reminds of something witnessed on the stage, and the tout ensemble might be the great scene of a realistic opera intended to glorify the people and the institutions of India.
We decided upon chartering a landau for ourselves and servant, and two ekkas to carry the heavy baggage. Mr. de Mars, the landlord of the hotel, was most obliging in helping us to arrange for our journey, promising to provide us with carriage and ekkas for a sum which did not seem to me to be at all exorbitant.
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