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Updated: June 23, 2025


There being rapids about every half-mile on the Vezere, and the current in places being very strong, I realized that no paddler would be able to get up the stream without help, and so I induced my landlord to accompany me and to bring a pole.

They are known as the Cro-Magnon race, after a group of them discovered in a rock shelter of that name on the banks of the Vezere. These particular people can be shown to be Aurignacian that is to say, to have lived just after the Mousterian men of the Neanderthal head-form.

My small boat had been lying on the Vezere several days doing nothing, when I decided upon a little water-faring up the stream. This canoe had been knocked together with a few deal boards.

This is the most picturesque bit of the valley of the Vezere; but to feel all the romance of it, and all the poetry of a perfect union of rocks and ruin, trees and water, one must glide upon the river, that here is deep and calm, and is full of that mystery of infinitely-intermingled shadow and reflection which is the hope and the despair of the landscape-painter.

Very different is all this from the Vezere caves, and everything proves an undeniable improvement in the conditions of life. The most interesting of all the objects found in these caves are, however, the carvings; but few date from Neolithic times, and some archaeologists have argued from their absence in favor of the displacement everywhere of old races by the incursion of new-corners.

There were two rivers, the Vienne and the Vézère, and these might seem to an enthusiast for the famous argument from Design, as if Nature had intended them for the transport of timber from the immense forests that crowned the Limousin hills.

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