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Updated: May 1, 2025
Jean d'Acre Caesarea Excursion among the ruins Jaffa An eastern family The Indian fig-tree An Oriental dinner Costume of the women of Jaffa Oppressive heat Gnats Ramla Syrian convents Bedouins and Arabs Kariet el Areb, or Emmaus The Scheikh Arrival at Jerusalem. May 25th. This morning I could discern the Syrian coast, which becomes more glorious the nearer we approach.
I recovered completely from my indisposition, and was able to enjoy the beautiful evening. As soon as the scheikh of the village heard that a party of Franks had arrived, he despatched four or five dishes of provisions to us. Of all these preparations we could only eat one the butter-milk.
We reclined on the steps of the hall; and while the men smoked and drank coffee, a conversation of a very uninteresting kind was kept up, the dragoman acting as interpreter. At length the scheikh seemed seized with the idea that we might possibly be tired with our journey. He took his leave, and offered unasked to send us two men as sentries, which he did.
The other dishes, a mixture of honey, cucumbers, hard-boiled eggs, onions, oil, olives, etc., we generously bestowed upon the dragoman and the muker, who caused them quickly to disappear. An hour afterwards the scheikh came in person to pay his respects.
Some years ago this was the haunt of a famous robber, who was scheikh of the place, and let no Frank pass before he had paid whatever tribute he chose to demand. Since the accession of Mehemet Ali these exactions have ceased both here and in Jerusalem, where money was demanded of the stranger for admission into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and other sacred places.
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