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Updated: June 16, 2025
My different Appellations. Departure for, and arrival at, Rujban, native place of my Camel-driver. Aspect of The Mountains. Miserable condition of the Inhabitants. Cruelty of the Tribute Collectors. Marabouts exempt. Curiosity of the Women to see The Christian. Social Habits of the People. Politics in The Mountains. Visit from The Sheikh. Various Conversations and Visitors. Heat of the Weather.
Started again, and did not arrive at Mohammed's village, in the district of Rujban, till after midnight. It was a most wearisome ride. I kept asking Mohammed, "how far the village was off?"
This morning received a visit from the Sheikh of Rujban, Bel Kasem by name , and his head-servant, or factotum. I made them the best coffee I could, putting into it plenty of sugar. The Arabs are curious people; they like things either very bitter or very sweet.
In the evening went to see Rujban. There are seven villages forming the district of Rujban. These consist of so many mud and stone buildings, but some of the houses are excavations out of the solid rock, the principal object being protection from the fiery summer heat, and the intense winter cold.
I gave him some solution to wash his eyes, and he gave me in turn a jar of new milk. Something was said about olive-oil, and I asked where we could get some. They said there was none in Rujban. The lady of my host thinking me incredulous, pulled her gray grisly hair, and exhibited its crispness and dryness, observing, "See, where's the oil?"
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