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Updated: June 3, 2025


He had bitten the leg of a man who lived in the upper part of Oomoa, and when this man came limping to the banquet, he brought the biter as his contribution. Those who would turn up their noses at Towser must hear Captain Cook, who was himself slain and dismembered in Hawaii: "The flesh of the South Sea Dog is a meat not to be despised. It is next to our English Lamb."

In the ruins of a broken and abandoned paepae, in the shadow of an acre-covering banian, I smoked and asked myself what a Christ would think of the havoc wrought by men calling themselves Christians. Journey on the Roberta; the winged cockroaches; arrival at a Swiss paradise in the valley of Oomoa.

Grelet said that the conch I had heard at night sounding off Oomoa must have been in a canoe or whale-boat bound for Hanavave, a valley a dozen miles away over the mountains, but only an hour or so by sea. It might have brought a message of interest, or perhaps would be a conveyance to my own valley, so in mid-forenoon we launched Grelet's whale-boat for a journey to Hanavave.

Oomoa and Hanavave, the adjacent bay and village, were resorts for whalers, who brought a plague of ills that reduced the population of Fatu-hiva from many thousands to less than three hundred.

She had decked herself for the journey with a covering of ena-paste, perfumed with saffron, a favorite cosmetic of island beauties. The sun was white on Oomoa beach as we came down to it from the grateful shade of Grelet's plantation.

The white man who danced in Oomoa Valley; a wild-boar hunt in the hills; the feast of the triumphant hunters and a dance in honor of Grelet. Grelet had gone in a whale-boat to Oia, a dozen miles away, to collect copra, and I was left with an empty day to fill as I chose.

The house, the garden, and the unexplored recesses of Oomoa Valley were mine, with whatever they might afford of entertainment or adventure. Every new day, wherever spent, is an adventure, but when to the enigmatic morning is added the zest of a strange place, it must be a dull man who does not thrill to it. I began the day by bathing in the river with the year-old Tamaiti, Grelet's child.

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