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Updated: June 1, 2025
The bright green water was black with them, and a space yards wide and long, and several feet thick, was occupied by a block of fish packed as closely as if they were pickled herrings. These fish are also very sacred, and to catch them is prohibited. Soon after leaving Kunbul I passed through Islamabad, a large town of which I may have more to say hereafter.
Started this evening by water for Islamabad, the ancient capital of Cashmere. We made a slight change in our arrangements, rather for the better, by hiring a large boat for ourselves and handing our own over to the servants and culinary department in general.
An avenue of chenars led straight to the bridge, showing either the antiquity of the trees or the comparatively modern date of the temple. June 19. Yesterday afternoon we left Bejbehara, and went on to Kanbal, the port of Islamabad. A hot and sultry day, oppressive and enervating to all but the flies, which were remarkably energetic and lively.
About a kos from our halting place, we began again to see the wooden houses, and came to a halt at the picturesque little village of Nowbogh, where there were two roads branching off to Islamabad. Here we had a long wait for breakfast, the servants being overcome by the unaccustomed civilization and tobacco they met on the road.
A few days later we started on what was to be the most exquisite memory of my life. A train of ponies carried our tents and camping necessaries and there was a pony for each of us. And so, in the cool grey of a divine morning, with little rosy clouds flecking the eastern sky, we set out from Islamabad for Vernag. And this was the order of our going.
This majestic temple stands at the northern end of the elevated table-land of "Matan," about three miles to the eastward of Islamabad. This is undoubtedly the finest position in Kashmir. The temple itself is not now more than forty feet in height, but its solid walls and bold outlines towering over the fluted pillars of the surrounding colonnade give it a most imposing appearance.
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