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Updated: June 5, 2025


There was fighting at the Château d'Eau, and without either a pass or an ambulance brassard a nearer approach to the scene of action was undesirable; indeed, until recently, the shells had been bursting here in every direction, and their holes might be seen in the centre of those pavements heretofore sacred to the flâneurs of Paris.

She saw the crowds passing in the streets, women tripping along consciously, men flaneurs strolling with their well-known look of watchful idleness, and she felt herself to be one of life's prisoners. And she knew she would never again take hands with the Paris she had once known so well. Why was that?

But, as in the East thoughts of health and diet always occupy an extraordinarily prominent place in the minds of all who have dwelt there for any length of time, that which chiefly struck the stranger was the apparently reckless indifference to fever displayed by those flaneurs who dawdled about under the trees on this treacherous soil, as though it were the harmless green grass of Hurlingham at home.

The uniform domino of civilization is worn everywhere, and no difference in color, no special cut of the garment, notifies you that you are away from home. The men and women whom I met in the street escape description; the flâneurs of the Unter den Linden are exactly like the flâneurs of the Boulevard des Italiens.

Each has its Exchange distinct from the other a distinct municipal court and public offices each has its centre of fashionable resort its favourite promenade for the flaneurs, of which the South-western metropolis can boast a large crowd its own theatres, ballrooms, hotels, and cafes. In fact, a walk of a few paces transports one into quite a different world.

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