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Updated: June 18, 2025


No one who has lived only in old settled countries, where service can be readily bought, can imagine the difficulties and annoyances of a land where the servant class are ignorant of the value of money, and hands cannot be obtained except by coaxing them from the employ of other masters. Great mortality takes place amongst the poor captive children on their arrival at Ega.

On the 6th of October we left Ega on a second excursion; the principal object of Cardozo being, this time, to search certain pools in the forest for young turtles.

I never heard the bird on the Lower Amazon, and very rarely heard it even at Ega; it is the only songster which makes an impression on the natives, who sometimes rest their paddles whilst travelling in their small canoes, along the shady by- streams, as if struck by the mysterious sounds.

The wind carried us right into the mouth of the Teffe and at four o'clock p.m. we cast anchor in the port of Ega. Scarlet-faced Monkeys Parauacu Monkey Owl-faced Night-apes Marmosets Jupura Bats Birds Cuvier's Toucan Curl-crested Toucan Insects Pendulous Cocoons Foraging Ants Blind Ants

The owner, an old white-haired Portuguese trader of Ega named Daniel Cardozo, was then at Barra attending the assizes as juryman, a public duty performed without remuneration, which took him six weeks away from his business. He was about to leave Barra himself, in a small boat, and recommended me to send forward my heavy baggage in the cuberta and make the journey with him.

Joam Garral, who had shown no intention of putting his foot on shore, had decided this time, at the request of the ladies of his family, to leave his absorbing daily work and accompany them on their excursion. Torres had evinced no desire to visit Ega, to the great satisfaction of Manoel, who had taken a great dislike to the man and only waited for an opportunity to declare it.

I once saw it in considerable numbers, when on an excursion with an Indian companion along the low Ygapo shores of the Teffe, about twenty miles above Ega.

So for two days they pushed their way through the wild places of Navarre, past Fuente, over the rapid Ega, through Estella, until upon a winter's evening the mountains fell away from in front of them, and they saw the broad blue Ebro curving betwixt its double line or homesteads and of villages.

There was another passenger besides myself a cautious, middle-aged Portuguese, who was going to settle at Ega, where he had a brother long since established. He was accommodated in the fore- cabin, or arched covering over the hold.

The performances take place in the evening, and occupy five or six hours; bonfires are lighted along the grassy streets, and the families of the better class are seated at their doors, enjoying the wild but good-humoured fun. We lived at Ega, during most part of the year, on turtle.

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