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Updated: July 1, 2025
In the high arcade a colony of doves is domesticated; and I like to watch them circling about and wheeling round the spires of the over-decorated Theatine church opposite, and perching on the heads of the statues on the facade. The royal palace, near by, is a huddle of buildings and courts, that I think nobody can describe or understand, built at different times and in imitation of many styles.
At all events, as guest after guest arrived in her over-decorated salon, she looked up expectantly, and then resumed her expression of ugly indifference. "Per Bacco!" she muttered quite audibly enough for one to overhear, "this crowd seems to think I have asked all Rome to supper!" She attacked two young men of fashion as they entered.
I'm French, you see not Russian at all; these poor people see through nothing but we French!" After dinner there was a strange scene. We all moved into the long, over-decorated drawing-room. I call those silences "Russian," because I know nothing like them in any other part of the world.
The choir screens, work of the Renaissance, are very lovely, while above them are the ambones, from which on a Festa the Epistle and Gospel are sung. The stalls are of the end of the fifteenth century, and the altar, a dreadful over-decorated work, of the year 1825.
There is a sense of solemn gloom pervading the place, the dim light struggling through the painted windows being only sufficient to give the whole a weird aspect, in its over-decorated aisles. Some idea may be formed of the elaborate ornamentation of the Cathedral from the fact that it contains over forty thousand square feet of mosaic work!
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