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Updated: May 9, 2025


The country through which the Grand Transasiatic is now running is not so monotonous. The plain begins to undulate, for we are approaching the outer ramifications of the eastern orographic system. We are nearing the tableland of the Pamirs. At the same time we continue at normal speed along this section of a hundred and fifty kilometres which separates us from Khodjend.

The actor said to me in a tone of the best humor: "Never shall I forget Khodjend, Monsieur Claudius." "And why will you never forget Khodjend, Monsieur Caterna?" "Do you see these peaches?" he asked, showing me the fruit he was carrying. "They are magnificent " "And not dear! A kilo for four kopeks that is to say, twelve centimes!" "Eh!" I answer.

And as the Caternas could never forget any more than they could forget the famous peaches of Khodjend there are a few of these dishes which the English embassy wished to retain in remembrance, for they have given the composition in the story of their journey: pigs' feet dusted with sugar and browned in fat with a dash of pickles; kidneys fried with sweet sauce and served with fritters.

After leaving Tachkend the railway had curved toward the south, so as to reach Khodjend; but after leaving town it curved to the east in the direction of Kokhan. It is at Tachkend that it is nearest to the Transsiberian, and a branch line is being made to Semipalatinsk to unite the railway systems of Central and Northern Asia.

Is the province affected by the prolific example of the Celestial Empire? No! It is the progress of trade, the concentration of merchants of all nations onto these new markets. Our halt at Khodjend has lasted three hours. I have made my professional visit and walked on the banks of the Syr-Dana.

And is not the young Roumanian like a snail in his shell, for it is as much as he can do to get out of it? We reach Khodjend about three in the afternoon. The country is fertile, green, carefully cultivated. It is a succession of kitchen gardens, which seem to be well-kept immense fields sown with clover, which yield four or five crops a year.

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