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Updated: May 28, 2025
These are: first, to waterproof the hat-forms; second, to stiffen them at the same time and by the same process; and the third, the one the importance of which I think English hat manufacturers have frequently overlooked, at least in the past, is to so proof and stiffen the hat-forms as to leave them in a suitable condition for the subsequent dyeing process.
In the final spells of dyeing in the dye-beck already referred to, tolerably thick with black precipitate or mud, the application of black to the hat-forms begins, I fear, to assume at length a too close analogy to another blacking process closely associated with a pair of brushes and the time-honoured name of Day & Martin.
The difficulty then is this in proofing, your hat-forms are rendered impervious to the dye solutions of your dye-baths, all except a thin superficial layer, which then has to be rubbed down, polished, and finished.
The hot acid water promotes in a high degree the felting powers of the short-staple wool or fur, and, to a lesser extent, the thinly proofed ends of the fibres projecting from the surfaces of the proofed hat-forms.
Yes, there was the pantry, like the kitchen, in chaotic disorder, tissue paper and excelsior thick on the floor, and entangled with it the indescribable jumble of worthless, disconnected objects always tumbled together by a domestic crisis like a fire or a removal old gloves, whisk-brooms, hat-forms, lamps, magazines, tarnished desk-fittings.
We have referred to two enemies standing in the way to the obtainment of a final lustre and finish on felted wool or fur, now let us expose a third. In the black dyeing of the hat-forms a boiling process is used. Let us hear what Dr. Bowman, in his work on the wool fibre, says with regard to boiling with water.
From time to time carbonate of ammonia is added to the bath, as it is said to throw up "dirt." The stuff or "dirt," chiefly an ochre-like mass stained black with the dye, and rich in iron and carbonate of iron, is skimmed off, and fresh verdigris and copperas added with another lot of hat-forms.
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