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Updated: May 5, 2025
My own method is to set the boiler out in the open, screw down the safety-valve so that it cannot lift, and raise steam with the help of a blow-lamp, to which a string is attached wherewith to pull it backwards along a board. If the boiler is to be worked at 50 lbs., I watch the steam gauge through a telescope until 100 lbs. is recorded, then draw the lamp away.
As already remarked, pressure must not be sacrificed to steam flow. Lubricators. These are short pieces of tubing hollowed at one end by a round file of the same diameter as the bearings. A little "Tinol" is smeared over the surfaces to be joined, and the lubricators are placed in position and heated with the blow-lamp until the solder runs.
This arrangement gives a total heating surface of about 140 square inches. With a powerful blow-lamp this boiler raises a lot of steam. Tubing the Furnace Flue. Before any of the holes are made, the lines on which the centres lie must be scored from end to end of the flue on the outside.
Soldering the disc to the spindle is most easily effected with a blowpipe or small blow-lamp. The Boiler. In the centre of the boiler make a dent, to act as bottom bearing for the spindle. From this centre describe a circle of 5/8-inch radius. On this circle must be made the steam port or ports.
The general design can be followed from the sectional views, and these will show, too, that ignition was by means of a hot tube on the cylinder head, which had to be heated with a blow-lamp before starting the engine.
Surfaces to be riveted together should be "tinned" before riveting, to ensure the solder getting a good hold afterwards. The solder should be sweated right through the joint with a blow-lamp to make a satisfactory job. All joints exposed to the flames should be silver-soldered, and other joints as well if the working pressure is to exceed 50 lbs. to the square inch.
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