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Updated: May 16, 2025
But no road connects it with the mainland, and travellers from Cetinje or Podgorica must take the steamer from either Rijeka or Plavnica to Virpazar, and from thence a good road leads over the Sutormann Pass to Antivari. A road which is being built between Virpazar and Rijeka will supply a long-felt want.
As an instance, the whole of the country lying beyond Rijeka towards the sea, containing two important towns, and in size about an eighth of Montenegro, possesses one short road from Virpazar to Antivari and one carriage. Our path lay for the first three hours through a richly vegetated country, and the scenery at times was quite English, owing to the amount of oak trees which overhang the path.
It is about four hours to Plavnica, and the trip across the lake is very fine, surrounded as it is by magnificent mountains and dotted with tiny wooded islands along its northern bank. We did not disembark at Plavnica, the nearest point for Podgorica, but proceeded viâ Virpazar up the river to Rijeka, the final station of the steamer and connecting link with Cetinje.
Stephan our servant Virpazar The drive over the Sutormann Pass Antivari and Prstan The beauty of the bay We are delayed by contrary winds We are rowed to Dulcigno We make the acquaintance of Marko Ivanković A story concerning him We shoot together An episode on a lake Vaccination The Turkish inhabitants. As he was our constant companion for several months, it would be well to describe him.
At present, when the Prince or Crown Prince wish to visit their favourite residence on the sea at Topolica, near Antivari, the horses have to be sent by a roundabout mountain path from Rijeka, taking many hours, while the Princes take steamer and have a tedious wait in the inn at Virpazar.
There the good ship Danitza, owned by the same company, awaited us, and conveyed us to Virpazar, past our island of Vranjina and its little chapel. Virpazar is the scene of the Montenegrin Vespers in 1702, and one of the richest villages in the district.
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