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Updated: May 11, 2025
The next morning dawned clear, and the lao-pan declared we could start, as the water was falling, but he professed unwillingness to take me through the dreaded Hei Shi Tan, or "Black Rock Rapid," near the western end of the first gorge; so I carried two two-carrier chairs for myself and the interpreter, paying one thousand cash for thirty li.
In the villages one hears constantly, "Yu ti kou yao!" "There is a dog on the road," with the response, "Han lao-pan lai chi tao!" "Call the owner to chain it"; or else, "Tso shou wahwah keo!" "A child on the left hand," and then comes the answer, "Han ta ma lah pao!" "Call his mother to tend him." Every hundred yards or so on the road comes the cry, "Fan keo!"
The boat was all that could be desired, and the captain, or "lao-pan," proved skilful and obliging, but unfortunately he was not, as is usually the case, the owner of the boat, and still more unfortunately, one of the owners, a rather old man, was serving with the crew. Nothing happened, but I had at times an uncomfortable feeling that nobody was in authority over any one.
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