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The village of Calamachi offers but little of interest, the few houses have only been erected since the steamers plied, and the tolerably high mountains on which it lies are for the most part barren, or grown over with low brambles. We took several walks on the Isthmus, and ascended minor heights, from whence on one side is seen the gulf of Lepanto, and on the other the AEgean sea.

Even in Calamachi, where we remained this day and the following, as the ship which was to carry us on from Lutrachi did not arrive, on account of contrary winds, until the 25th, he attended to us with the greatest politeness.

24th October. Here I had to leave the ship and cross the Isthmus, three English miles broad. At Lutrachi we went on board another vessel. During the passage to Calamachi, which lasts only a few hours, the little town of Megara is seen upon a barren hill. Nothing is more unpleasant in travelling than changing the conveyance, especially when it is a good one, and you can only lose by doing so.

I was told by everyone that in Greece it was neither safe to trust myself with a guide nor to wander about alone, as I had done in other countries; indeed, I was warned here in Calamachi not to go too far from the harbour, and to return before the dusk of the evening. 26th October. We did not start from Lutrachi until towards noon, by the steamer Hellenos, of one hundred and twenty-horse power.