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Updated: May 27, 2025


The man in charge of the train started a young man ahead with me to lead the bell-horse, placing another young man about the center of the train. It was a miserably rough country across these lava beds, and we had to travel very slowly. The man in charge dropped back in the rear of the train, thinking that if we were attacked it would be at the rear.

The little trade which existed between one part of the kingdom and another was carried on by means of packhorses, along roads little better than bridle-paths. These horses travelled in lines, with the bales or panniers strapped across their backs. The foremost horse bore a bell or a collar of bells, and was hence called the "bell-horse."

We generally tethered three horses, and kept one bridled; and, with these arrangements, we slept as securely and soundly as ever; for I felt sure that we had nothing to fear, as long as our tinkling bell-horse, and perhaps a second horse, was moving near us. July 23. When Charley returned this morning with the horses, he told me, that a fine broad salt-water river was again before us.

The reader will understand that in crossing this hell-hearth it was necessary for the pack-animals to string out single file. When we were across the lava beds, or "Devil's Garden," as the place was commonly called, I told the man who was leading the bell-horse to stop and wait until the other animals had come up in order to see whether we had lost any. This was within a mile of headquarters.

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