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I sighed for the Iberian 'Zarzuela, that most charming opera buffa which takes its name from a 'pleasaunce' in the Pardo Palace near Madrid. The condiments are mostly garlic and saffron, preferred to mustard and chillies. The pastry, they tell me, is excellent. It stood in the garden of the Marquez de Sauzal, who would willingly have preserved it.

The best Tenerife brands were produced on the northern slopes from Sauzal and La Victoria to Garachico and Ycod de los Vinos. The latter, famed for its malmsey, has lost its vines and kept its name. The latadas, or trellises, varied in height, some being so low that the peasant had to creep under them.

Continuing our way from Tacoronte we reached Sauzal, beyond which the coach did not then run; the old road was out of condition, and the new not in working order. We offered a dollar each for carrying our light gear to sturdy men who were loitering and lying about the premises.

Islets, which are now but heaps of scoriae and volcanic ashes, were once perhaps as fertile as the hills of Tacoronte and Sauzal. Happy the country, where man has no distrust of the soil on which he lives! Pursuing our course to the port of Orotava, we passed the smiling hamlets of Matanza and Victoria.