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Updated: June 15, 2025


My illiterate Laohwan, who could neither read nor write, had a courtesy of demeanour, a well-bred ease of manner, a graceful deference that never approached servility, which it was a constant pleasure to me to witness. As regards the educated classes, there can be little doubt, I think, that there are no people in the world so scrupulously polite as the Chinese.

My men, who had come with me from Chaotong, were paid off in Yunnan; but it was pleasant to find all three accept an offer to go on with me to Talifu. But no coolies, owing to the increase in the price of food, were now willing to go for so little. To Laohwan, who had no load to carry, but had to attend to me and the pony and pay away the cash, I made a similar offer.

The attendant Laohwan was a powerful Chinese, solid and determined, but courteous in manner, voluble of speech, but with an amusing stammer; he had a wide experience of travel in Western China. He seemed to enjoy his journey he never appeared lovesick; but, of course, I had no means of asking if he felt keenly the long separation from his bride.

My two carriers from Chaotong had been engaged to go with me only as far as Tongchuan, but they now re-engaged to go with Laohwan, my third man, as far as the capital. The two taels they asked the missionary to remit to their parents in Chaotong, and he promised to receive the money from me and do so.

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