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Updated: May 29, 2025
We contrived to get some black bread, hard-boiled eggs, oranges, and helva from one of the little hole-in-the-wall shops near by, watched Pera and its ascending roofs turn to purple, and the purple to gray and black, until Constantinople was but a string of lights across Galata Bridge, and a lamp here and there on the hills.
It is very good and tasty. It was followed by salted olives, which are wonderful, by the helva, i. e., the favorite sweet dish, and by a bowl of sherbet. This consists of water poured over grapes and thoroughly iced. The whole dinner for two hearty eaters cost one hundred and twenty paras, or five shillings. The comforts of the Turkish baths I have described to you in an earlier letter.
He took no lunch, but ate some of the helva left over from Stamboul, and then started with us up the hill behind the camp.
Pausing at a hut on the side of the great green mountain, we looked north toward Helva, white-crested with a wreath of vapour. Cawda was still veiled, and Cawda was to give the signal for all the smaller fires.
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